What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyglycerin-3
HumectantButylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Citrate
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningGellan Gum
Agar
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningNicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantFructooligosaccharides
HumectantCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentArginine
MaskingActinidia Arguta Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
AntioxidantSophora Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ProtectingSodium Chloride
MaskingPhenylpropanol
MaskingLevulinic Acid
PerfumingSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglycerin-3, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Retinol, Retinal, Gellan Gum, Agar, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Adenosine, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Polyquaternium-51, Citric Acid, Beta-Carotene, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopherol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Fructooligosaccharides, Cyanocobalamin, Ceramide NP, Maltodextrin, Arginine, Actinidia Arguta Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Sophora Japonica Flower Extract, Sodium Chloride, Phenylpropanol, Levulinic Acid, Sodium Levulinate
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningDiphenyl Dimethicone
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyglycerin-3
HumectantRetinal
Skin ConditioningCastor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantLithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCynanchum Atratum Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientAlthaea Rosea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningXylose
HumectantMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
Hydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
HumectantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion Stabilising1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGellan Gum
Agar
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Glucosamine
Skin ConditioningPvm/Ma Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPolyglutamic Acid
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglycerin-3, Retinal, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Xylose, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Butylene Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tromethamine, Allantoin, Gellan Gum, Agar, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Acetyl Glucosamine, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Beta-Carotene, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Cyanocobalamin, Astaxanthin, Tocopherol, Polyglutamic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineAgar is the vegan substitute for animal-gelatin. It helps thicken and improve the texture of cosmetics. It comes from cell-walls of red algae.
Beta-Carotene is a fat-soluble carotenoid pigment. It is the thing responsible for giving carrots, sweet potatoes, apricots, and other orange-yellow produce their color.
It is a potent antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals (mainly reactive oxygen species) that come at your skin from both the environment and internal processes.
When applied topically, beta-carotene accumulates in your outermost layer of skin and acts as a first-line defense against photo-oxidative stress.
Research has established that carotenoids like beta-carotene boosts your skin's innate resistance against UVB induced erythema. Please know this does not mean beta-carotene can replace your sunscreen.
Newer studies show it can also help inhibit molecular markers of oxidative stress like MMP-1 and MMP-9, enzymes that break down collagen.
In some cases, it can be used as a cosmetic colorant as well (INCI name: CI 40800).
Beta-carotene pairs well with other antioxidants like Vitamin E and Vitamin C for a synergistic effect.
Learn more about Beta-CaroteneButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCyanocobalamin is the manufactured version of vitamin B12. It has skin soothing, antioxidant, and barrier protecting properties. Topical cyanocobalamin is used to treat skin irritation and atopic dermatitis.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGellan Gum is a high-molecular weight heteropolysaccharide gum. It is created by the process of pure-culture fermentation with the bacterium Pseudomonas elodea.
Gellan Gum is used to stabilize products. This helps improve the texture, consistency, and shelf life.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilMethyl Gluceth-20 is a humectant. Humectants help draw moisture from the air to your skin.
It is created by combining polyethylene glycol with glucose.
Pentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPolyglycerin-3 is a 3-unit glycerin polymer.
Like glycerin, this ingredient is a humectant. Humectants help hydrate your skin by drawing water to it.
Having moisturized skin helps improve the skin barrier. Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.
Learn more about Polyglycerin-3Retinal is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the gold-standard class of anti-aging ingredients.
Retinal has many benefits as other retinoids: improve skin texture, reduce large pores, reduce the effects of aging, reduce the visibility of dark spots, heal scars, and fight acne.
Studies show retinal may work at a faster rate than retinol due to its structure.
All retinoids have to be converted into retinoic acid before starting to work. Some retinoids take several steps of conversion before binding. Retinal is only one step away, making it more potent.
Like other retinoids, retinal may be irritating. It is best to ease into using this ingredient frequently.
Using the 'ramp up' method, start by using retinol once a week. This gives your skin time to adjust and decrease irritation. Once you feel ready, you can slowly increase the frequency of retinol use.
Using retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few weeks of use. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
Learn more about RetinalTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum