What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingNylon-12
Caprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
Antioxidant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingDimethicone
EmollientMaltodextrin
AbsorbentLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningMannitol
HumectantTrehalose
HumectantPolyacrylate-13
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyisobutene
Sodium Citrate
BufferingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingPolymethyl Methacrylate
Parfum
MaskingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSaponins
CleansingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientCarnosine
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningThymol Trimethoxycinnamate
AntioxidantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Retinol
Skin ConditioningGlycine Max Polypeptide
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPEG-75
HumectantPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningMica
Cosmetic ColorantTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPapain
Skin ConditioningPearl Powder
Sodium Polyphosphate
Tocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Nylon-12, Caprylyl Methicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ascorbic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Dimethicone, Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Mannitol, Trehalose, Polyacrylate-13, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Sodium Citrate, Panthenol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Parfum, Glycine Soja Oil, Xanthan Gum, Saponins, Glyceryl Caprylate, Carnosine, Tromethamine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Thymol Trimethoxycinnamate, CI 77891, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Retinol, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Sodium Hyaluronate, PEG-75, Phospholipids, Mica, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, BHT, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Papain, Pearl Powder, Sodium Polyphosphate, Tocopherol
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingButylene Glycol
HumectantMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingBetaine
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Cholesterol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningBrassica Campestris Sterols
EmollientPhytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveAluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantArctium Lappa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCnidium Officinale Root Extract
Skin ConditioningDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingRehmannia Chinensis Root Extract
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningBakuchiol
AntimicrobialSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPanax Ginseng Root Extract, Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sorbitan Stearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Betaine, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Cholesterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Retinal, Silica, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Bakuchiol, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAdenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTromethamine helps balance the pH and improve the texture of a product. It is synthetically created.
As an emulsifier, Tromethamine prevents oil and water ingredients from separating. This helps stabilize the product and elongate a product's shelf life. Tromethamine also makes a product thicker.
Tromethamine helps balance the pH level of a product. Normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome. Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Oral Tromethanmine is an anti-inflammatory drug but plays the role of masking, adding fragrance, and/or balancing pH in skincare.
1,3-Propanediol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-
Learn more about TromethamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water