What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePEG-40 Stearate
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantArginine
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentButylene Glycol
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantSh-Decapeptide-7
AntioxidantSh-Octapeptide-4
AntioxidantSh-Oligopeptide-9
HumectantWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Dipropylene Glycol, Sorbitan Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 80, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-40 Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Arginine, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ascorbic Acid, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Maltodextrin, Butylene Glycol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Sh-Oligopeptide-9
Water
Skin ConditioningParaffinum Liquidum
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Sesquioleate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPinus Densiflora Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialStearic Acid
CleansingSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantLonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingSteareth-20
CleansingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientTriethylhexanoin
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Acorus Calamus Root Extract
PerfumingPerilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract
TonicRosa Centifolia Flower Extract
AstringentChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingJasminum Officinale Extract
MaskingRosa Canina Fruit Extract
AstringentHibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Unshiu Peel Extract
MaskingSaururus Chinensis Extract
Skin ConditioningHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningCastanea Crenata Shell Extract
Skin ConditioningSalicornia Herbacea Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCeteth-20
CleansingParfum
MaskingLinalool
PerfumingButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingWater, Paraffinum Liquidum, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Glyceryl Stearate, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract, Stearic Acid, Sorbitan Stearate, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Carbomer, Arginine, Steareth-20, Cyclopentasiloxane, Triethylhexanoin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Disodium EDTA, Acorus Calamus Root Extract, Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Jasminum Officinale Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Saururus Chinensis Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceteth-20, Parfum, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCamellia Japonica Seed Oil comes from the Japanese Camellia plant. This plant is native to East Asia and known as "Tsubaki" in Japanese.
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is rich in oleic acid. This makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe the skin by forming a barrier. This barrier traps moisture within, keeping your skin hydated.
Carbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateSorbitan Stearate is an emulsifier made by reacting sorbitol with stearic acid.
It's mostly used to keep oil and water mixed so your formulas stay smooth and stable.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has found 4% of this ingredient in repeat-insult patch tests on humans to be non-sensitizing. There is a caveat that some reactions have shown up in patients with damaged or diseased skin.
Because it is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it falls into the C11-24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize. This means this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan StearateStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water