What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPongamia Glabra Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningCoconut Alkanes
EmollientCoco-Glucoside
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantDiethyl Sebacate
EmollientGossypium Herbaceum Callus Culture
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingC18-21 Alkane
SolventBentonite
AbsorbentXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingLecithin
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningVanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningIsostearic Acid
CleansingTocopherol
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingCitrus Nobilis Peel Oil
MaskingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingLactic Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Zinc Oxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil, Coconut Alkanes, Coco-Glucoside, Glycerin, Diethyl Sebacate, Gossypium Herbaceum Callus Culture, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Acacia Senegal Gum, C18-21 Alkane, Bentonite, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Isostearic Acid, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Benzyl Alcohol, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenethyl Alcohol, Limonene, Linalool
Water
Skin ConditioningZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylyl Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCoco-Glucoside
CleansingOryza Sativa Starch
AbsorbentPongamia Glabra Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingIsostearic Acid
CleansingLecithin
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingPassiflora Edulis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Oleate
EmollientVaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Chloride
MaskingHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientCitrus Nobilis Peel Oil
MaskingAnthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
MaskingCinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum Leaf Oil
PerfumingPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingGlucose
HumectantParfum
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialHydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Zinc Oxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Propanediol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coco-Glucoside, Oryza Sativa Starch, Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Behenyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Passiflora Edulis Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Oleate, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Chloride, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Cinnamomum Camphora Linalooliferum Leaf Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Glucose, Parfum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidMandarin peel oil is an essential oil made by distilling the peel of mandarin oranges. It is primarily used for fragrance but has some secondary skin conditioning effects.
This ingredient is rich in limonene and is generally considered milder than some other citrus oils (like lemon or bergamot). It is not strongly phototoxic because it contains little to no furocoumarins when properly produced.
Like other essential oils, this ingredient can be a fragrance allergen.
Learn more about Citrus Nobilis Peel OilCoco-Glucoside is a surfactant, or a cleansing ingredient. It is made from glucose and coconut oil.
Surfactants help gather dirt, oil, and other pollutants from your skin to be rinsed away.
This ingredient is considered gentle and non-comedogenic. However, it may still be irritating for some.
Learn more about Coco-GlucosideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinIsostearic acid is a saturated fatty acid. Its structure makes it a great surfactant.
Surfactants help decrease the surface tension between two liquids. This property also makes it an effective emulsifier. Emulsifiers help prevent waters and oils from separating in a product.
Isostearic Acid is created from oleic acid.
This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Isostearic AcidLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolThis ingredient is an emulsifier. It is created from Polyglycerin-3 and Ricinoleic Acid.
As an emulsifier, it prevents waters and oils from separating. According to a manufacturer this ingredient is fully biodegradable.
This ingredient may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis due to its Ricinoleic Acid base. Ricinoleic Acid is a fatty acid derived from castor oil.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleatePolyhydroxystearic Acid is a soft wax made from castor oil.
It is is a texture thickener, emulsifier, and film-former. Emulsifiers prevent ingredients from separating, such as oils and waters.
Polyhydroxystearic Acid may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidPongamia Glabra Seed Oil is the fixed oil expressed from seeds of of Pongamia glabra, Fabaceae
Pongamia glabra is a member of the pea family and it most commonly known as Indian Beech. The species is native to Southeast Asia, the Pacific Islands, and Australia.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan GumZinc Oxide is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter; it is the broadest UVA and UVB reflector approved by the FDA. It also has skin protectant and skin soothing properties.
Zinc oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters. It protects against UVB, UVAII, and UVAI. In comparison to its counterpart titanium dioxide, zinc oxide provides uniform and extended UVA protection.
Another great benefit? This ingredient is highly photostable so it won't degrade easily under sunlight.
A common myth is that mineral UV filters are widely believed to primarily reflect UV light.
However, modern research shows titanium dioxide absorbs UV radiation like chemical filters (~95% absorption & 5% reflection).
Zinc oxide has great skin soothing properties so you'll likely find this in sunscreens formulated for sensitive skin or babies/children. It is unlikely to cause "eye sting" like other sunscreen ingredients.
Regulatory agencies consider zinc oxide to be non-toxic and safe. It has also been shown to not penetrate the skin.
Unfortunately, this ingredient does leave a visible white cast. This is why mineral sunscreens are often less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid ones.
In cosmetics, zinc oxide can be found in both non-nano and nano-sized forms. The nano version is used to reduce white cast and improve the texture of sunscreen formulas.
There are ongoing concerns surrounding nano-zinc oxide's impact on marine ecosystems and whether it can be absorbed into skin.
Regarding marine ecosystems and coral reefs, there is no conclusive evidence that any form of zinc oxide (or any other sunscreen ingredients) will cause harm. The science is still developing but many consumers are keeping a close eye on this issue.
Please note, many destinations have reef-safety sunscreen rules. For instance, the U.S. Virgin Islands advises all visitors to use non-nano mineral sunscreens.
There has also been some stir about whether micronized or nano zinc oxide has potential photoxicity and absorption through the skin/lungs.
An in-vitro (done in a test tube or petri dish) study demonstrated micronized zinc oxide to have potential phototoxicity. There's no need to fret; the EU Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has stated, "The relevance of these findings needs to be clarified by appropriate investigations in vivo." Or in other words, further studies done on living organisms are needed to prove this.
Current research shows zinc oxide nanoparticles do not penetrate intact or sunburned skin. They either remain on the surface or in the outermost layer of dead skin (stratum corneum).
Zinc oxide is one of only two classified mineral UV filters with titanium dioxide being the other one.
Fun fact: Zinc has been used throughout history as an ingredient in paint and medicine. An Indian text from 500BC is believed to list zinc oxide as a salve for open wound. The Ancient Greek physician Dioscorides has also mentioned the use of zinc as an ointment in 1AD.
Learn more about Zinc Oxide