What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningDimethiconol
EmollientHibiscus Abelmoschus Extract
MaskingParfum
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingPhyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract
HumectantHydrolyzed Rice Protein
Skin ConditioningMethylparaben
PreservativeCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingEthylparaben
PreservativeTetrasodium EDTA
T-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingSophora Angustifolia Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningMorus Alba Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningWater, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Gluconolactone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethiconol, Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract, Parfum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Retinyl Palmitate, Propylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sorbitan Laurate, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Methylparaben, Carbomer, Ethylparaben, Tetrasodium EDTA, T-Butyl Alcohol, Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Dipropylene Glycol, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventPolymethylsilsesquioxane
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingGinkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantResveratrol Dimethyl Ether
AntioxidantQuercetin
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningMorus Alba Root Extract
Bleaching3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Chloride
MaskingBHT
AntioxidantTriethanolamine
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Sodium Cholate
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeParfum
MaskingCitronellyl Methylcrotonate
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Propanediol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Resveratrol Dimethyl Ether, Quercetin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Morus Alba Root Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Lecithin, Alcohol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Chloride, BHT, Triethanolamine, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Cholate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, CI 15985
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
You might know this ingredient as Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, a more stable version of ascorbic acid.
Like other types of vitamin C, this ingredient has many benefits including reducing wrinkles, skin soothing, dark spot fading, and fighting against free radicals.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid interferes with the process of skin darkening, helping to reduce hyperpigmentation. It also encourages the skin to produce more collagen.
Once applied, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is converted to Vitamin C deeper in the skin's layers. This process is slow but makes this ingredient more tolerable for skin.
The optimum pH range for this ingredient is 4 - 5.5
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinThis ingredient is used in skincare as a delivery system.
It works by "encapsulating" active ingredients with its unique ring shape that is water-loving on the outside and oil-loving on the inside. This improves the stability and absorption of the product into the skin.
According to a manufacturer, it also offer some moisturizing effects.
Learn more about Hydroxypropyl CyclodextrinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolRetinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum