Natura Siberica Oblepikha C-Berrica Vitamin C Glow Day Cream Spf 20 Versus Emma Hardie Moisture Boost Vitamin C Cream
This brightening day moisturizer is formulated around Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening day moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV AbsorberDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
UV FilterGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantBis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
UV AbsorberHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin ProtectingSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantAnnona Muricata Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningAchillea Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
HumectantUsnea Barbata Extract
Schisandra Chinensis Callus Extract
Skin ProtectingSalvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
CleansingNiacinamide
SmoothingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeParfum
MaskingCI 16255
Cosmetic ColorantCoumarin
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Annona Muricata Leaf/Stem Extract, Achillea Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Usnea Barbata Extract, Schisandra Chinensis Callus Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Niacinamide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum, CI 16255, Coumarin, Limonene, Linalool
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPropanediol
SolventCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantCetyl Palmitate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantParfum
MaskingStearic Acid
CleansingMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningSodium Lauroyl Glutamate
SurfactantCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientSodium Anisate
AntimicrobialSodium Benzoate
MaskingCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPalmaria Palmata Extract
Skin ProtectingSesamum Indicum Seed Oil
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDisodium EDTA
ChelatingOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientLactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningLinalool
PerfumingBrassica Campestris Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCitral
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialGeraniol
PerfumingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentMoringa Oleifera Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningPentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate
EmollientWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Parfum, Stearic Acid, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Limonene, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Sodium Anisate, Sodium Benzoate, Cellulose Gum, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate, Linalool, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citral, Citronellol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Benzyl Benzoate, Geraniol, Maltodextrin, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Pentapeptide-34 Trifluoroacetate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Glucoside is a sugar-based emulsifier. It is usually made by combining cetearyl alcohol and glucose.
Belonging to the aklyl polyglucoside (APG) family, Cetearyl Glucoside has a sugar "head" that loves water and a fatty "tail" that loves oil. This means it can shuffle oil and water into a stable and smooth emulsion.
Typical use levels are between 1-5% and this ingredient is considered to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel Review.
Once applied, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down to the parent fatty alcohol and glucose. This is why this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl GlucosideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum