What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantSqualane
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientCetearyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningBakuchiol
AntimicrobialWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Squalane, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Arachidyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Ceramide NP, Adenosine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Bakuchiol
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPalmitic Acid
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientBenzyl Glycol
SolventStearic Acid
CleansingSorbitan Sesquioleate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentIsopentyldiol
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantPolyglyceryl-4 Oleate
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
HumectantSucrose Palmitate
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantLeontopodium Alpinum Extract
Skin ConditioningLauric Acid
CleansingHydroxydecyl Ubiquinone
AntioxidantSucrose
HumectantMyristic Acid
CleansingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingAnastatica Hierochuntica Extract
AstringentButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientSilk Extract
Skin ConditioningSalmon Egg Extract
Beta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningAdansonia Digitata Fruit Extract
EmollientHydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysorbate 60, Glyceryl Stearate, Palmitic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Benzyl Glycol, Stearic Acid, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Arginine, Sodium Polyacrylate, Isopentyldiol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Allantoin, Propanediol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Sucrose Palmitate, Dipropylene Glycol, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Lauric Acid, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Sucrose, Myristic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Silk Extract, Salmon Egg Extract, Beta-Glucan, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources. In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water