What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitol
HumectantMaleic Acid
BufferingDipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate
Behentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeArginine
MaskingMethylglucamine
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantHexadimethrine Chloride
Maltitol
HumectantPolyquaternium-4
Parfum
MaskingAlcohol
AntimicrobialCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Metaphosphate
BufferingGlucosamine Hcl
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingOleic Acid
EmollientDextrin
AbsorbentSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientHydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea
EmollientCholesterol
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingLinoleic Acid
CleansingTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Sorbitol, Maleic Acid, Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Behentrimonium Chloride, Arginine, Methylglucamine, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Dipropylene Glycol, Hexadimethrine Chloride, Maltitol, Polyquaternium-4, Parfum, Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Metaphosphate, Glucosamine Hcl, Ethylhexylglycerin, Linalool, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Oleic Acid, Dextrin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea, Cholesterol, Stearic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientSorbitol
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientDipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate
Isopropyl Alcohol
SolventParfum
MaskingDimethiconol
EmollientArginine
MaskingAminopropyl Dimethicone
Maleic Acid
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialOleic Acid
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentCholesterol
EmollientVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientGlyceryl Linoleate
EmollientCapsicum Annuum Extract
MaskingVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Linolenate
EmollientMalt Extract
Skin ProtectingBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Arachidonate
EmollientMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingAcer Saccharum Extract
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientWater, Dimethicone, Sorbitol, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Isopropyl Alcohol, Parfum, Dimethiconol, Arginine, Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Maleic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Alcohol, Oleic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Limonene, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Dextrin, Cholesterol, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Glyceryl Linoleate, Capsicum Annuum Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Glyceryl Linolenate, Malt Extract, Beta-Carotene, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Ceramide NP, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Biotin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholArginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineThis ingredient is a preservative and often used for it's anti-static properties. You'll most likely see this ingredient in hair conditioners.
It does not cause irritation or sensitization in leave-on products at 1-5%.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholCholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.
It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.
Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.
Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.
Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.
Learn more about CholesterolDextrin is used to thicken a product and helps bind ingredients together. It is created from starch and glycogen.
As an emulsifier, dextrin prevents ingredients from separating. This helps elongate a product's shelf life.
Studies show coating UV filters with dextrin prevents these ingredients from being absorbed. This helps UV ingredients last longer on the skin.
Learn more about DextrinDipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate is a type of sulfate.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinHydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA is a synthetic molecule designed to mimic ceramides. Ceramides moisturize and strengthen the skin barrier.
This ingredient is claimed to be as effective as Ceramide 3, but with the added benefits of a lower melting point. This makes it easier to work with in formulations at a more affordable price.
According to a study looking at the structure of Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA, this ingredient cannot be categorized as a ceramide because it is lacking the sphingosine moiety.
Learn more about Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MeaWe don't have a description for Maleic Acid yet.
Oleic Acid is an Omega-9 fatty acid that can be found naturally in your skin's sebum and in many plant oils such as avocado and olive oil.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and prevent moisture loss.
Research shows:
A 1998 study did find that applying oleic acid at higher concentrations may cause irritation and disrupt the skin barrier. Modern formulations typically use low levels that is well-tolerated.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Oleic Acid, at C18, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Oleic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
Learn more about Oleic AcidParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilSorbitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a hydrating and moisturizing agent created from the reduction process of glucose.
Most sorbitol is usually made from potato starch. It is also found in fruits such as apples and pears.
As a humectant, Sorbitol helps draw water to the skin. This helps keep the skin hydrated. Sorbitol also helps create a thicker texture in products. You might find sorbitol in your toothpaste and other gels.
It is a non-irritating ingredient that is great for those with dry skin.
Sorbitol is a prebiotic. It helps promote the growth of healthy bacteria on your skin. The bacteria on your skin form a microbiome. This microbiome helps protect your skin from infection and harmful bacteria.
Learn more about SorbitolStearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol from stearic acid. It is a white, waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Emollients help soothe and hydrate the skin by trapping moisture.
Fatty alcohols are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as solvent (ethanol) alcohols.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
Learn more about Stearyl AlcoholTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water