What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPEG-400
Emulsion StabilisingLecithin
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientResveratrol
AntioxidantEthoxydiglycol
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingPolyacrylamide
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningDiisopropyl Sebacate
EmollientC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientRetinal
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingLaureth-7
EmulsifyingEthylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride
AntioxidantSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPullulan
Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract
AntioxidantSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingSilica
AbrasiveTocopherol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientWater, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-400, Lecithin, Propylene Glycol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Resveratrol, Ethoxydiglycol, Phenoxyethanol, Behenyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Arachidyl Glucoside, Polyacrylamide, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Retinal, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Laureth-7, Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Silica, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Water
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingNiacinamide
SmoothingAloe Barbadensis Extract
Skin ConditioningEthyl Olivate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingOlive Oil Ethylhexyl Esters
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingPropanediol
SolventSqualane
EmollientPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientRetinal
Skin ConditioningMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningTocotrienols
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientTrideceth-6
EmulsifyingSorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningInulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingSucrose Laurate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantLecithin
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Centella Asiatica Extract, Niacinamide, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Ethyl Olivate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Olive Oil Ethylhexyl Esters, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Propanediol, Squalane, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Retinal, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Tocotrienols, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Panthenol, Arginine, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Saccharide Isomerate, Allantoin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-6, Sorbitan Laurate, Polysorbate 80, Hyaluronic Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Gluconate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Sucrose Laurate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolRetinal (aka retinaldehyde) is a form of retinoid that formulators use mainly as an antiaging and skin-renewing active.
What makes it special is its position in the retinoid family; skin converts it to retinoic acid (the prescription gold standard) in just one step.
Because retinal only requires 1 conversion step to become retinoic acid, it's the strongest over-the-counter retinoid. It also works at lower concentrations than retinol, since retinal is about 10x more bioavailable.
Studies back up its efficacy in skin:
A foundational trial showed that applying 0.05-0.5% retinal for 1-3 months produced a dose-dependent and significant increase in epidermal thickness + cell turnover markers.
And a head-to-head comparison of 0.05% retinal against a 0.05% retinoid acid found both formulations were effective for the basis of wrinkle/skin roughness features, but retinoic acid caused more local irritation.
More recent controlled trials confirm it improves wrinkles, dermal density, and firmness over 12-24 weeks, with significant improvements in skin texture and firmness (particularly with the higher 0.1% concentration).
Retinal also has one trick the other retinoids do not: it directly fights against acne bacteria since a clinical study showed retinaldehyde-treated areas displayed a significant decrease in counts of viable P. acnes.
This makes it a great pick for people who want to treat aging and breakouts.
Typical cosmetic use sits in the 0.05-0.1% range with 0.05% being the gentle starting point and 0.1% giving stronger results.
Like all retinoids, retinal works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen. It can cause some irritation so ease into it slowly rather than going all in.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinal once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low.
Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
Learn more about RetinalSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum