What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningJuglans Regia Shell Powder
AbrasiveCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPropanediol
SolventHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientParfum
MaskingGlycolic Acid
BufferingMalic Acid
BufferingAzelaic Acid
BufferingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantSqualane
EmollientMacrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Skin ConditioningCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingSalix Nigra Bark Extract
Skin ProtectingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Water, Juglans Regia Shell Powder, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Parfum, Glycolic Acid, Malic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Squalane, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Allantoin, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycolic Acid
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantJuglans Regia Shell Powder
AbrasiveLactic Acid
BufferingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPEG-100 Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmulsifyingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialChrysanthellum Indicum Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningMethylparaben
PreservativePropylparaben
PreservativeGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Parfum
MaskingWater, Glycolic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Juglans Regia Shell Powder, Lactic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract, Hydrolyzed Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Glyceryl Caprylate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateGlycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural āglueā that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (thatās where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But donāt skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless youāre highly sensitive, itās well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Glycolic AcidYou might know this ingredient as walnut shell powder. It is an abrasive used as a physical exfoliator.
Abrasives are physical exfoliants used to get rid of dead cell buildup on your skin. Physical exfoliators have a bad reputation due to the myth that they give your face tiny cuts. This is untrue.
Like any exfoliant, using this ingredient can disrupt your skin barrier. This can lead to breakouts, irritation, and dryness. It is critical to be gentle when using any type of exfoliator.
If you want to use a chemical exfoliator instead, check out glycolic acid.
Learn more about Juglans Regia Shell PowderParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of āFRAGRANCEā or āPARFUMā according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water