What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientPolyisobutene
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingSynthetic Wax
AbrasivePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeVanillin
MaskingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientZinc Carbonate
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingTribehenin
EmollientPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingWater
Skin ConditioningRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingLactic Acid
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantHydrogenated Castor Oil
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Diisostearyl Malate, Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Microcrystalline Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Octyldodecanol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Synthetic Wax, Phenoxyethanol, Vanillin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Zinc Carbonate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Parfum, Tribehenin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sorbitan Isostearate, Water, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Tridecyl Trimellitate
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientPolyisobutene
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
EmulsifyingEuphorbia Cerifera Cera
AstringentCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientBehenyl Behenate
EmollientPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingMentha Arvensis Leaf Oil
MaskingPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientPlukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
EmollientRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrogenated Castor Oil
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingLactic Acid
BufferingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeLimonene
PerfumingTridecyl Trimellitate, Octyldodecanol, Polyisobutene, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Behenyl Behenate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lactic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterEthylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateHydrogenated Castor Oil (aka "castor wax") is what you get when castor oil is turned into a wax.
Its dominant fatty acid is ricinoleic acid, giving it both emollient and mild humectant properties.
According to EU CosIng, this ingredient helps soften skin, keep oil and water stay mixed, and thickens products.
Hydrogenated castor oil at 30% did not trigger a positive patch-test reaction and is well-tolerated.
Since this ingredient is based on an 18-carbon fatty acid, it falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia can feed on and may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Hydrogenated Castor OilLactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the product’s pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Lactic AcidOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer made from isobutene.
It is a film-forming agent and helps bind ingredients together.
Polyisobutene is not absorbed by the skin.
Learn more about PolyisobuteneThis ingredient is also known as castor oil. It is a skin conditioning ingredient.
The star component of castor oil is ricinoleic acid, an unusual fatty acid that makes up ~80-92% of its composition.
In skincare, it is an emollient that dries down to a solid film with water-binding properties. This helps keep skin hydrated and helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
A 2026 dermatology review pulls together its broader uses:
Human clinical testing found this ingredient to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Because castor oil contains fatty acids in the C11-24 range, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
At this time, the literature does not support castor oil in regrowing hair. A 2022 systematic review found no strong evidence that it supports hair growth and only weak evidence that it improves hair shine.
Castor oil itself carries "perfuming" and "masking" function tags according to the official CosIng database. This is because of its mild odor and odor-dampening properties.
Learn more about Ricinus Communis Seed OilSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about Tribehenin