What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantRetinol
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingBakuchiol
AntimicrobialVaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
AstringentLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHumulus Lupulus Extract
AntimicrobialDimethiconol
EmollientPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSqualane
EmollientSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Copernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Skin ConditioningDisodium Cocoamphodiacetate
CleansingC13-16 Isoalkane
SolventT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthyl Ferulate
AntioxidantWater, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Glycerin, Retinol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bakuchiol, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Tocopherol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Humulus Lupulus Extract, Dimethiconol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Maltodextrin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Potassium Sorbate, Squalane, Sodium Gluconate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Citric Acid, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, C13-16 Isoalkane, T-Butyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Ethyl Ferulate
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingIsopentyldiol
HumectantTrioctyldodecyl Citrate
EmollientCitrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningRubus Idaeus Seed Oil
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTriolein
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Dioleate
EmollientBisabolol
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningDunaliella Salina Extract
Skin ConditioningEthyl Ferulate
AntioxidantHumulus Lupulus Extract
AntimicrobialZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingArginine
MaskingPropanediol
SolventCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingUbiquinone
AntioxidantLactic Acid
BufferingSodium Phytate
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientInulin
Skin ConditioningDisodium Cocoamphodiacetate
CleansingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingCellulose
AbsorbentFructose
HumectantGlucose
HumectantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopentyldiol, Trioctyldodecyl Citrate, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Panthenol, Triolein, Retinal, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, Retinol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil, Glyceryl Dioleate, Bisabolol, Allantoin, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Ethyl Ferulate, Humulus Lupulus Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Arginine, Propanediol, Cellulose Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Ubiquinone, Lactic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Caprylyl Glycol, Inulin, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Cellulose, Fructose, Glucose, Sorbitan Isostearate, Xanthan Gum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
This ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDisodium Cocoamphodiacetate is a surfactant and helps cleanse skin. It is created from the fatty acids of coconut oil.
Surfactants help rinse oil, dirt, and other pollutants easily from skin. It has a faint fruit-like scent.
Ethyl ferulate is an antioxidant derived from ferulic acid and ethyl alcohol. You'll most likely see this ingredient in sunscreens.
One study from 2014 found a concentration of 10% showed a similar SPF to Benzimidazole. Though this is considered a chemical UV filter, this ingredient is not listed as so. This is due to regulatory loopholes. You'll likely find this ingredient in "100% mineral" sunscreens.
This ingredient is typically found in concentrations between 0.5-1%. It is usually created synthetically or from rice bran oil.
Learn more about Ethyl FerulateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilWe don't have a description for Humulus Lupulus Extract yet.
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolRetinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum