What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Artemisia Capillaris Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningCinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract
AntimicrobialCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningC12-14 Alketh-12
EmulsifyingSodium Citrate
BufferingTromethamine
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Gluconolactone
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentPvm/Ma Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingBetaine Salicylate
AntimicrobialCapryloyl Glycine
CleansingHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingSarcosine
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingArtemisia Capillaris Extract, Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, C12-14 Alketh-12, Sodium Citrate, Tromethamine, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Gluconolactone, Dextrin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Betaine Salicylate, Capryloyl Glycine, Hexylene Glycol, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Sarcosine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Limonene, Linalool
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantMaltobionic Acid
BufferingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Alpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantButylene Glycol
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingMadecassoside
AntioxidantAsiaticoside
AntioxidantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientAcetyl Glutamine
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-9
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-11
Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
AntioxidantSnail Secretion Filtrate
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingMenthyl Lactate
MaskingDecyl Glucoside
CleansingLauryl Glucoside
CleansingCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientEucalyptus Globulus Oil
Hydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Niacinamide, Polysorbate 20, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Maltobionic Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Alpha-Arbutin, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Betaine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Menthyl Lactate, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water