What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Pyrus Malus Pulp Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycolic Acid
Buffering
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Emulsifying
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Cleansing
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Ceteareth-20
CleansingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Prunus Avium Seed Oil
Emollient
Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Bromelain
Skin Conditioning
Papain
Skin Conditioning
Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
Antioxidant
Prunus Cerasus Shell Powder
Abrasive
Litchi Chinensis Seed Powder
Abrasive
Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
Antioxidant
Coconut Acid
Cleansing
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Emollient
Raphanus Sativus Root Extract
AstringentRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin Conditioning
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Antimicrobial
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Maltodextrin
Absorbent
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate
UV AbsorberSodium Isethionate
CleansingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Parfum
Masking
CI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantPyrus Malus Pulp Extract, Glycolic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lactic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Ceteareth-20, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Prunus Avium Seed Oil, Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract, Bromelain, Papain, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Prunus Cerasus Shell Powder, Litchi Chinensis Seed Powder, Furcellaria Lumbricalis Extract, Tocopherol, Coconut Acid, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Raphanus Sativus Root Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Maltodextrin, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate, Sodium Isethionate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, CI 16035, CI 19140, CI 17200
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Kaolin
Abrasive
Bentonite
Absorbent
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydrated Silica
Abrasive
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Salicylic Acid
Masking
Charcoal Powder
Abrasive
Volcanic Sand
Skin ConditioningRheum Palmatum Root Extract
Astringent
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Masking
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Squalane
Emollient
Algin
Masking
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Mannitol
Humectant
Microcrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentHydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Carboxymethyl Starch
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Stearate
Emulsifying
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Potassium Hydroxide
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Kaolin, Bentonite, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Hydrated Silica, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Salicylic Acid, Charcoal Powder, Volcanic Sand, Rheum Palmatum Root Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Panthenol, Squalane, Algin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Mannitol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, Sorbitan Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Polysorbate 60, Potassium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77891
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamatePhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about Phenoxyethanol
