What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientIsohexadecane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantHexyldecyl Stearate
EmollientSqualane
EmollientPetrolatum
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSilybum Marianum Extract
Skin ConditioningGentiana Lutea Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAlgae Extract
EmollientSorbitol
HumectantCaffeine
Skin ConditioningIsododecane
EmollientSucrose
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDimethicone
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientZinc PCA
HumectantHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isohexadecane, Glycerin, Hexyldecyl Stearate, Squalane, Petrolatum, Glyceryl Stearate, Silybum Marianum Extract, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Algae Extract, Sorbitol, Caffeine, Isododecane, Sucrose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Carbomer, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Zinc PCA, Hexylene Glycol, Parfum, Potassium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientStearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Skin ConditioningTremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
AntioxidantGlycine Soja Sterols
EmollientHydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPotassium Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein
CleansingBetaine
HumectantLinoleic Acid
CleansingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingPolyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Glyceryl Oleate
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Sodium Benzoate
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Cetearyl Methicone, Dimethicone, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Panthenol, Potassium Olivoyl Hydrolyzed Oat Protein, Betaine, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Tocopherol, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-20, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Glyceryl Oleate, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Benzyl Alcohol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCeteareth-20 is an emulsifier and surfactant made by reacting cetearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
This gives it both oil and water-loving properties that makes it an effect emulsifier; it's really great at pulling oil droplets into water to create a stable, creamy, and easy-to-spread base.
Typical use ranges from 0.5-30%. Most leave-on products are in the 1-10% zone.
The 20 ethylene oxide units is well above the PEG-10 threshold and therefore not a food source for Malassezia (it's fungal acne safe).
This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 2 and an irritancy rating of 3. These numbers come from testing the raw ingredient on rabbit ears and doesn't reflect how it will behave in a finished product.
In practice, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient. The ratings reflect cautious lab conditions and not real-world use. Just be sure to patch test any formulas you feel unsure about.
Learn more about Ceteareth-20Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water