e.l.f. cosmetics Youth Boosting Advanced Night Retinoid Serum Versus SKIN1004 Retinol 0.2 Boosting Shot Ampoule
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and Retinal to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPEG-8
HumectantBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantDiglycerin
HumectantDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeLecithin
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientBisabolol
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantRetinal
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
ChelatingGlycerin
HumectantVigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningSea Water
HumectantMaltodextrin
AbsorbentLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Algin
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Sucrose
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCoco-Glucoside
CleansingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativePalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningWater, Propanediol, PEG-8, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, Butylene Glycol, Diglycerin, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Lecithin, Tromethamine, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Bisabolol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Retinal, Disodium EDTA, Glycerin, Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract, Sea Water, Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Hydrolyzed Algin, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Sucrose, Carbomer, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Olivate
Squalane
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingRetinol
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingPhaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingInulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentRetinal
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Sponge
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
ChelatingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPanthenol
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingWater, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Squalane, Sorbitan Olivate, Carbomer, Retinol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Tromethamine, Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Retinal, Hydrolyzed Sponge, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Madecassoside, Centella Asiatica Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinRetinal (aka retinaldehyde) is a form of retinoid that formulators use mainly as an antiaging and skin-renewing active.
What makes it special is its position in the retinoid family; skin converts it to retinoic acid (the prescription gold standard) in just one step.
Because retinal only requires 1 conversion step to become retinoic acid, it's the strongest over-the-counter retinoid. It also works at lower concentrations than retinol, since retinal is about 10x more bioavailable.
Studies back up its efficacy in skin:
A foundational trial showed that applying 0.05-0.5% retinal for 1-3 months produced a dose-dependent and significant increase in epidermal thickness + cell turnover markers.
And a head-to-head comparison of 0.05% retinal against a 0.05% retinoid acid found both formulations were effective for the basis of wrinkle/skin roughness features, but retinoic acid caused more local irritation.
More recent controlled trials confirm it improves wrinkles, dermal density, and firmness over 12-24 weeks, with significant improvements in skin texture and firmness (particularly with the higher 0.1% concentration).
Retinal also has one trick the other retinoids do not: it directly fights against acne bacteria since a clinical study showed retinaldehyde-treated areas displayed a significant decrease in counts of viable P. acnes.
This makes it a great pick for people who want to treat aging and breakouts.
Typical cosmetic use sits in the 0.05-0.1% range with 0.05% being the gentle starting point and 0.1% giving stronger results.
Like all retinoids, retinal works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen. It can cause some irritation so ease into it slowly rather than going all in.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinal once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low.
Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
Learn more about RetinalSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Learn more about TromethamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water