What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantBoron Nitride
AbsorbentCaffeine
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin ConditioningCoconut Alkanes
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingMangifera Indica Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientBis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantDipeptide-2
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCopper Lysinate/Prolinate
Skin ConditioningHesperidin Methyl Chalcone
AntioxidantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingGlucose
HumectantBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicMethylglucoside Phosphate
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningTrideceth-6 Phosphate
EmulsifyingCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientLecithin
EmollientCetyl Palmitate
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningLeontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture
Skin ConditioningN-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningSteareth-20
CleansingThioctic Acid
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantChrysin
Skin ConditioningSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Citrate
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeLaureth-23
CleansingSodium Benzoate
MaskingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Carbonate
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Chloride
MaskingChlorhexidine Digluconate
AntimicrobialPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Boron Nitride, Caffeine, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Coconut Alkanes, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Niacinamide, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Bis(Tripeptide-1) Copper Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Glycine Soja Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glucose, Biotin, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Retinol, Ceramide NP, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Lecithin, Cetyl Palmitate, Panthenol, Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Ubiquinone, Citric Acid, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Steareth-20, Thioctic Acid, Tocopherol, Chrysin, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Citrate, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Laureth-23, Sodium Benzoate, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Carbonate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingTrehalose
HumectantSodium PCA
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningSiloxanetriol Alginate
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlycolic Acid
BufferingWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Trehalose, Sodium PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Niacinamide, Caffeine, Siloxanetriol Alginate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glycolic Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Learn more about HydroxyethylcelluloseNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum