Anua Azelaic Acid 3 Cica Skin Clarifying Toner Versus SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Tea-Trica Purifying Toner
This acne toner is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and calm redness.
This acne toner is formulated around Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water and Centella Asiatica Extract to clear breakouts and balance excess oil.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid
Buffering1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPropylene Glycol
HumectantSalicylic Acid
MaskingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantPropanediol
SolventPPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCynanchum Atratum Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantEpilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAlthaea Rosea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningDocosahexaenoic Acid
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantMadecassoside
AntioxidantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Protein
EmulsifyingCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningEctoin
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhizic Acid
HumectantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingSuccinic Acid
BufferingZinc PCA
HumectantO-Cymen-5-Ol
AntimicrobialSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantGlycolic Acid
BufferingPotassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantCentella Asiatica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPolyglutamic Acid
Skin ConditioningXylose
HumectantAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningTotarol
AntioxidantSqualane
EmollientChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningWater, Azelaic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hydroxide, Propylene Glycol, Salicylic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Propanediol, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Docosahexaenoic Acid, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, Madecassoside, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panthenol, Glycine Soja Protein, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Asiaticoside, Allantoin, Ectoin, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Succinic Acid, Zinc PCA, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycolic Acid, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Centella Asiatica Root Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglutamic Acid, Xylose, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Totarol, Squalane, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Ceramide NP
Water
Skin ConditioningChamaecyparis Obtusa Water
MaskingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
AntimicrobialButylene Glycol
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPropanediol
SolventPinus Palustris Leaf Extract
TonicMethyl Gluceth-20
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantSodium Citrate
BufferingSalicylic Acid
MaskingCastanea Crenata Shell Extract
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
CleansingWater, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Propanediol, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Methyl Gluceth-20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carbomer, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Tromethamine, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Sodium Citrate, Salicylic Acid, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinThis ingredient is also known as tea tree oil. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Tea tree oil is a complex lipophilic (fat-loving) oil that contains around 100 compounds with terpinen-4-ol being the most abundant (~40%).
Terpinen-4-ol is responsible for tea tree oil's broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and makes it a well-researched option for acne.
Clinical studies support 5% tea tree oil as an effective topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. A study with 124 patients compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide and both reduced acne (though tea tree oil worked more slowly).
Besides acne, it is also seen in anti-dandruff shampoos and scalp treatments for it's antimicrobial and anti-seborrheic properties.
Safety-wise, the allergic potential of low concentrations on healthy skin is considered low. However, oxidized (old or improperly stored) tea tree oil is a stronger sensitizer.
Irritation can also occur if using the undiluted oil on skin; it's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted cosmetic formula. This is because regulations require tea tree oil in cosmetics to be stabilized to prevent degradation.
This ingredient has been deemed safe up to 2% in shampoo, 1% in cleansers, and 0.1% in face cream by the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).
There is some lab evidence that tea tree oil is antifungal against Malassezia, but it is a supportive option at best and not a replacement for proven antifungal treatments.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf OilPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSalicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Learn more about Salicylic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water