What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Polybutene
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientTrimethylolpropane Triisostearate
EmollientPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingBis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Skin ConditioningOctocrylene
UV AbsorberCeresin
Emulsion StabilisingCera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
UV FilterEthylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Petrolatum
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningAroma
Bisabolol
AntioxidantTribehenin
EmollientBHT
AntioxidantButylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Sorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingLactic Acid
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningLysine Carboxymethyl Cysteinate
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialVanillin
MaskingCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantPolybutene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Octocrylene, Ceresin, Cera Microcristallina, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Petrolatum, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Aroma, Bisabolol, Tribehenin, BHT, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lactic Acid, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Lysine Carboxymethyl Cysteinate, Water, Glutathione, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzyl Benzoate, Vanillin, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 42090, CI 77491, CI 77891, CI 15850
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientTridecyl Trimellitate
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPolybutene
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingOctyldodecanol
EmollientBis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientParfum
MaskingSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingMica
Cosmetic ColorantPropylene Carbonate
SolventCitrus Aurantium Peel Oil
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantEugenol
PerfumingIsoeugenol
PerfumingVanillin
MaskingAluminum Hydroxide
EmollientAstrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
EmollientMethyl Salicylate
PerfumingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningTribehenin
EmollientGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingLactic Acid
BufferingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polybutene, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cera Microcristallina, Octyldodecanol, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Parfum, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Synthetic Wax, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Mica, Propylene Carbonate, Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Eugenol, Isoeugenol, Vanillin, Aluminum Hydroxide, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Methyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Tribehenin, Glyceryl Behenate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lactic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, CI 77891, CI 19140, CI 77491, CI 15850
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCera Microcristallina, aka microcrystalline wax, is a petroleum-derived wax that helps thicken texture and stabilize the oils in formulas.
It also has mild occlusive properties that creates a film on skin to slow down water loss.
The CIR Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
This ingredient is refined to a cosmetic grade with high purity. It is chemically inert, stable, and doesn't clog pores (petroleum has a comedogenic rating of 0).
Malassezia feeds on fatty acids roughly in the C11-24 range and this ingredient contains none of those. Since there's no plausible food source for it here, this ingredient is fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cera MicrocristallinaCi 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.
Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.
This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.
It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.
Learn more about CI 15850CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.
Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.
Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.
Learn more about CI 19140Ci 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77491Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateHydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolyisobuteneThis ingredient is created by putting sodium hyaluronate through hydrolysis.
You might know this as 'mini' or 'ultra low-molecular weight' hyaluronic acid. The small molecule size means it is able to travel deeper in the skin.
According to studies, low molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can:
One study from 2011 found ultra-low weight HA to show pro-inflammatory properties. Another study from 2022 found it to downregulate UV-B induced inflammation.
Hydrolysis is a process of changing a molecule using water or enzymes.
This ingredient is water-soluble.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed Sodium HyaluronateLactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the âglueâ that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they donât penetrate as deeply. This means theyâre less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skinâs microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the productâs pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Lactic AcidPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Polybutene is used to help control the viscosity of a product. This just means it helps adjusts the texture.
It is a polymer and does not get absorbed into the skin due to its large size.
Studies found this ingredient did not irritate skin in concentrations below 15%.
Learn more about PolybutenePolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is a plant-derived emulsifier and pigment-dispersing agent with a non-sticky skin feel.
It helps products glide on smoothly and prevents oil and water from separating in a formula, making it suitable for sunscreen and makeup formulations.
The EU inventory of cosmetics has no use restrictions on this ingredient and it is considered well-tolerated.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is derived from isostearic acid.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-2 TriisostearateSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about TribeheninVanillin is the main compound of the vanilla bean. It is naturally occuring but can also be artificially created.
This ingredient exhibits antioxidant properties but is also a known skin-irritant.
Vanillism is the term of contact-dermatitis associated with the vanilla plant. The sap of the vanilla plant triggers skin irritation, swelling, and redness.
Learn more about Vanillin