What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Zinc Oxide 12%
Cosmetic ColorantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningButyloctyl Salicylate
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientGlyceryl Dibehenate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientIsodecyl Salicylate
Skin ConditioningIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientLecithin
EmollientNeopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPolyester-7
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventSilica Silylate
EmollientSodium Chloride
MaskingSqualane
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientTridecyl Salicylate
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningZinc Oxide 12%, Allantoin, Butyloctyl Salicylate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Dimethiconol, Glyceryl Behenate, Glyceryl Dibehenate, Glyceryl Stearate, Isodecyl Salicylate, Isopropyl Isostearate, Lecithin, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyester-7, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Propanediol, Silica Silylate, Sodium Chloride, Squalane, Tribehenin, Tridecyl Salicylate, Water
Water
Skin ConditioningZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantPropanediol
SolventDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingBenzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
UV AbsorberCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPolyglyceryl-3 Distearate
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Antimicrobial1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingMethylpropanediol
SolventEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPolyether-1
T-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningWater, Zinc Oxide, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Niacinamide, Caprylyl Methicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Methylpropanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Polyether-1, T-Butyl Alcohol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc Oxide (ZO) is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter and the broadest-spectrum filter recognized by the FDA. It covers everything from UVB through to long-wave UVA.
On top of sun protection, it has skin protectant and skin-soothing properties too.
Here's a myth worth busting: mineral filters are usually described as working by "reflecting" or "bouncing" UV off your skin.
That's mostly not true: when researchers actually measured it, ZO and Titanium Dioxide reflect only about 4-5% of UV (less than SPF 2 worth of protection).
The vast majority of the work (~95%) is done by absorption, similar to chemical UV filters. ZO is a semiconductor that absorbs UV photos through its energy band gap.
So the old "physical blocker vs. chemical absorber" framing is really an oversimplification.
Zinc Oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters out there. It protects across UVB, UVA2, and UVA1 with a flat, even absorption curve across the whole UVA-UVB range.
That uniform UVA coverage is its standout feature; titanium dioxide skews more toward UVB as its particle size drops so ZO gives more consistent and extended UVA protection.
It's also very photostable. As an inorganic oxide, ZO doesn't break down in sunlight the way some organic filters can, so it holds up over a day of wear.
This ingredient is gentle and soothing, making it go-to for sunscreens aimed at sensitive skin, rosacea, or ecezma-prone skin, babies, and children.
It's also unlikely to cause the "eye sting" that some sunscreen ingredients are known for, and regulatory agencies broadly consider it non-toxic and safe for topical use.
Beyond sun protection, ZO is also a recognized OTC skin protectant. It forms a breathable barrier that shields skin from moisture and irritation while supporting healing. This is why you'll see it as a classic active in diaper rash creams.
The only downside to ZO is that it can leave a visible white cast, especially on deeper skin tones. This is the main reason mineral sunscreens have historically felt less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid formulas.
Zinc Oxide comes in both non-nano and nano forms. The dividing line is 100nm and anything under is classified as a nanomaterial by the EU.
The nano version scatters less visible light which cuts down white case and gives a lighter, more wearable texture.
Another thing worth understanding about formulation:
Uncoated ZO has some inherent photocatalytic activity. This just means it can generate reactive oxygen species under UV. It's exactly why cosmetic-grade ZO is almost always surface-coated; this coating suppresses that reactivity and improves how the powder disperses and feels.
A well-formulated coated ZO largely sidesteps this issue.
Zinc Oxide is commonly used anywhere from 10% up to the regulatory maximum in sunscreens (25%).
Mineral-only broad-spectrum products often land in the 15-25% range to hit higher SPF and UVA values. Keep in mind SPF performance depends heavily on particle size, dispersion, and the rest of the formula, and not just the percentage.
As an OTC skin protectant like diaper creams, ZO typically runs higher at roughly 10-40%.
This ingredient is generally easy to work with and doesn't photodegrade.
The only thing to know is that uncoated ZO can be a bit reactive in a formula.
Under UV, it can break down sensitive ingredients like other actives or UV filters. This is another reason coated versions are standard. ZO can also react with very acidic ingredients or throw off stability of some creams. A good formula will get around this with the right coatings and dispersion.
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that ZO nanoparticles "can be considered to not pose any risk of adverse effects in humans after application on healthy, intact or sunburnt skin".
You might hear that ZO is "toxic"; this is because an in-vitro (test tube) study suggested micronized ZO had potential phototoxicity. In vivo (human) investigations have disputed this and the results have come back reassuring.
So does ZO penetrate skin? The short answer is no, not in any way that matters.
The most relevant evidence comes from real-world human studies: in one, volunteers applied ZO nanoparticle sunscreen hourly for six hours and daily for five days. The advanced imaging showed the particles stayed on the surface and never reached the living epidermis, and no cellular toxicity was found.
Other in-vivo and ex-vivo work agree; ZO nanoparticles don't cross the stratum corneum, even on flexed, massaged, or barrier-impaired skin.
A small amount of solubilized zinc ions can dissolve off the particles and enter the upper skin. But the quantities are tiny compared to the zinc already naturally present in your body, and studies haven't found this to cause local toxicity.
The sunscreen bans you've heard of (like Hawaii's) are aimed at two chemical filters, Oxybenzone and Octinoxate. ZO itself it not banned and is often recommended instead.
So far, there's no solid evidence that any form of ZO harms reefs. It is an ongoing and active area of study, and worth keeping an eye on.
If you're traveling somewhere with these rules, a non-nano mineral sunscreen is the safe bet.
Learn more about Zinc Oxide