This brightening ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Centella Asiatica Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening ampoule is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventIsopentyldiol
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingGardenia Florida Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningSalvia Officinalis Water
Skin ConditioningPelargonium Graveolens Extract
MaskingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingEclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantBellis Perennis Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingJuniperus Virginiana Oil
MaskingCedrus Atlantica Bark Oil
MaskingAmyris Balsamifera Bark Oil
MaskingPogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
MaskingRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientOctyldodeceth-16
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
Buffering3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningFructooligosaccharides
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Panthenol
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentEctoin
Skin ConditioningCopaifera Officinalis Resin
MaskingCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Tetrahydropiperine
Skin ConditioningPhloretin
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCitronellol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingWater, Propanediol, Isopentyldiol, Butylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Gardenia Florida Flower Extract, Salvia Officinalis Water, Pelargonium Graveolens Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Bellis Perennis Flower Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Octyldodeceth-16, Carbomer, Tromethamine, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Adenosine, Fructooligosaccharides, Disodium EDTA, Panthenol, Beta-Glucan, Ceramide NP, Dextrin, Ectoin, Copaifera Officinalis Resin, Cyanocobalamin, Arginine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tetrahydropiperine, Phloretin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citronellol, Linalool, Geraniol
Water
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid 23%
AntioxidantPropanediol
SolventAlcohol
AntimicrobialSodium Citrate
Buffering1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantOctyldodeceth-16
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantGlutathione
Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer
Parfum
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Ferulic Acid
AntimicrobialTocopherol
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPiper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantCitrus Junos Seed Extract
AntioxidantPvp
Emulsion StabilisingFullerenes
AntimicrobialWater, Ascorbic Acid 23%, Propanediol, Alcohol, Sodium Citrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Octyldodeceth-16, Butylene Glycol, Glutathione, Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, Ferulic Acid, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Citrus Junos Seed Extract, Pvp, Fullerenes
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAdenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolDextrin is a starch-derived polysaccharide. It's made by partially breaking down corn, potato, or other plant starches.
Think of it as "half-processed" starch; it's less complex than the original but not fully broken down into sugar like maltodextrin.
In cosmetics, it mainly functions as a bulking agent, viscosity controller, binder, and absorbent. It helps thicken products, stabilize powders, and get certain textures a less "wet" feel.
This ingredient has a pretty solid safety profile; it's recognized as a safe food additive and its large molecular size means it doesn't meaningfully penetrate skin.
Human repeat insult patch tests using a rinse-off facial product containing 42.69% dextrin found no skin irritation or sensitization in 54 subjects.
Typical real-world usage is much lower: usually under 1% as a texture modifier and up to 40% in masks (rinse off products use less).
Learn more about DextrinDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinOctyldodeceth-16 is a lab-made ingredient that acts as an emulsifier that helps blend water + oil ingredients.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has deemed it safe for as in cosmetics and usage concentrations typically range from 0.1-2%.
Like other emulsifiers, this ingredient can cause mild skin irritation or sensitivity in a small amount of people. A patch test is reasonable if you have sensitive skin.
Learn more about Octyldodeceth-16Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract comes from the Theobroma cacoa, or Cacao tree. Cacao trees are native to tropical landscapes.
Cacao seed extract contains antioxidants known as polyphenols.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water