What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPolybutene
Cera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingOctyldodecanol
EmollientPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTribehenin
EmollientStevioside
MaskingTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingLactic Acid
BufferingMica
Cosmetic ColorantIron Oxides
Titanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polybutene, Cera Microcristallina, Octyldodecanol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tribehenin, Stevioside, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lactic Acid, Mica, Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Decaisostearate
EmollientPhytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingOctyldodecanol
EmollientPolyethylene
AbrasiveCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientOctyldodecyl Neopentanoate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydrogenated Olive Oil
Skin ConditioningEthylene/Propylene Copolymer
AbrasiveEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientSqualane
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientOrbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingCholesterol
EmollientCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningTribehenin
EmollientSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingCitral
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingTocopherol
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantMica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77163
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77400
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77742
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45370
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45380
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantCI 73360
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Polyisobutene, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Decaisostearate, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Microcrystalline Wax, Octyldodecanol, Polyethylene, Cetearyl Alcohol, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Squalane, Persea Gratissima Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Lactic Acid, Cholesterol, Ceramide Ng, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sorbitan Oleate, Parfum, Citral, Linalool, Limonene, Tocopherol, BHT, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77163, CI 42090, CI 77400, CI 77742, CI 45370, CI 15850, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 73360, CI 17200, CI 19140, CI 15985
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterEthylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateHydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolyisobuteneLactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the âglueâ that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they donât penetrate as deeply. This means theyâre less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skinâs microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the productâs pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Lactic AcidMica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.
Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.
This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.
Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.
Learn more about MicaOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
This is a plant-derived ester that functions as a skin conditioner. It's basically a two linoleic acid molecules combined with fatty alcohols.
In practice, it works as a rich emollient that helps reduce moisture loss and give skin a soft appearance.
The phytosterol part of this ingredient brings an added structural bonus: phytosterols are structurally similar to cholesterol so they can fit right into the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to help reinforce the skin barrier.
Due to its molecular structure, this ingredient delivers a cushiony and glossy feeling without being excessively greasy.
It did not produce skin irritation or sensitization in clinical studies, and this ingredient is deemed safe to use in cosmetics at current practices.
Because this ingredient contains C16, C18, and C22 fatty chains, it may not be Malassezia/fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast potentially feeds on fatty acids in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer DilinoleateJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about Tribehenin