The INKEY List Apple Cider Vinegar Acid Peel Versus Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta® Extra Strength Daily Peel
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycolic Acid
Buffering
Glycerin
Humectant
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
CleansingPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAcetum
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingPropanediol
Solvent
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingLactobacillus
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin Protecting
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Astringent
Maltodextrin
Absorbent
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
Masking
Citronellyl Methylcrotonate
Masking
Acer Saccharum Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Antimicrobial
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Humectant
Phytic Acid
Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycolic Acid, Glycerin, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Polysorbate 20, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Acetum, Sodium Hydroxide, Propanediol, Xanthan Gum, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Lactobacillus, Phenoxyethanol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Maltodextrin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, Acer Saccharum Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Phytic Acid, Agastache Mexicana Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Glycolic Acid
Buffering
Potassium Hydroxide
BufferingHamamelis Virginiana Water
Astringent
Salicylic Acid
Masking
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Mandelic Acid
Antimicrobial
Malic Acid
Buffering
Citric Acid
Buffering
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Astringent
Menthone Glycerin Acetal
Refreshing
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Achillea Millefolium Extract
CleansingAnthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Masking
Soy Isoflavones
Skin ConditioningCopper PCA
HumectantZinc PCA
Humectant
Lecithin
Emollient
Disodium EDTA
Alcohol
Antimicrobial
Polysorbate 80
Emulsifying
Parfum
Masking
Linalool
Perfuming
Benzyl Salicylate
Perfuming
Benzoic Acid
Masking
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Sodium Bicarbonate
Abrasive
Resveratrol
Antioxidant
Retinol
Skin Conditioning
Ascorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Ubiquinone
Antioxidant
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Phospholipids
Skin Conditioning
Retinyl Palmitate
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Raphanus Sativus Root Extract
AstringentSodium PCA
Humectant
BHT
Antioxidant
Octoxynol-9
EmulsifyingSimethicone
Emollient
Tetrasodium EDTA
Water, Alcohol Denat., Glycolic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Salicylic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Malic Acid, Citric Acid, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Menthone Glycerin Acetal, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Copper PCA, Zinc PCA, Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Alcohol, Polysorbate 80, Parfum, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzoic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Bicarbonate, Resveratrol, Retinol, Ascorbic Acid, Ubiquinone, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Phospholipids, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Raphanus Sativus Root Extract, Sodium PCA, BHT, Octoxynol-9, Simethicone, Tetrasodium EDTA
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Glycolic AcidPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Salix Alba Bark Extract comes from the bark of the white willow tree. The official CosIng listing states this ingredient to have astringent, skin conditioning, soothing, and tonic properties.
Its star compound is salicin, a natural glucoside that is chemically related to salicylic acid. That's why you'll often see it marketed as a "natural BHA alternative" but that's a bit of a stretch.
Your skin can't convert salicin to salicylic acid because it needs specific enzymes that aren't present on the skin's surface. It won't behave like true salicylic acid, especially at the concentrations used in cosmetics.
However, this ingredient has its own perks. It contains flavonoids, polyphenols, and tannins that give it proven antioxidant and soothing properties.
An 8-week clinical study found a cream with 2% of this extract improved skin microcirculation, elasticity, and dark circles. This is most likely due to its role in increasing hyaluronic acid synthesis in fibroblasts and improved vascular integrity.
Another study found a topical serum with 0.5% salicin showed improvements in visible signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, and texture.
Just be careful if you have a known aspirin/salicylate allergy and be sure to consult with a medical professional about using this ingredient if you do.
Fun fact: Willow Bark extract has been used for thousands of years and ancient civilizations used white willow to help treat pain and fevers.
Learn more about Salix Alba Bark ExtractWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
