What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Dimethicone
EmollientDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingIsododecane
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantPolybutene
Tribehenin
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingVp/Hexadecene Copolymer
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingVinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Dicalcium Phosphate
AbrasivePolyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate
EmulsifyingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientIsostearic Acid
CleansingLecithin
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeParfum
MaskingCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantDimethicone, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Isododecane, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Diisostearyl Malate, CI 77891, Polybutene, Tribehenin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Dicalcium Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Parfum, CI 45410, CI 15985, CI 77492, CI 42090, CI 17200, CI 77499
Dimethicone
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTriethylhexanoin
MaskingDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingVinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantCeramide AP
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantLecithin
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientIsostearic Acid
CleansingIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Parfum
MaskingCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPotassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantDimethicone, Tribehenin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Triethylhexanoin, Diisostearyl Malate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Mica, Titanium Dioxide, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, CI 15985, Lecithin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Isostearic Acid, Isopropyl Myristate, CI 15850, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, CI 19140, CI 45410, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Parfum, CI 42090, Ceramide NP, Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a silicone-based emulsifer that helps the water and oil phases play nicely together.
It's pretty effective because one end of the molecule loves oil and the other one loves water.
Besides holding formulas together, it also leaves a silky and lightweight feel on skin without the greasiness. A manufacturer also claims it can help with the controlled release of active ingredients.
The CIR Expert Panel found this ingredient to not be sensitizing in concentrations up to 15% in human maximazation testing and dimethicone-based compounds were not comedogenic.
It has a high molecular weight well above 1,000 g/mol which means it limits meaningful skin penetration.
A 2019 study specifically tested this ingredient and found no observable Malassezia growth in its presence.
Learn more about Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 DimethiconeCi 15985 is a dye made from petroleum. It is synthetically created and approved by the FDA for use in foods and cosmetics.
The color of this dye is orange/yellow.
This ingredient can be found in makeup, sun care, and skincare.
Learn more about CI 15985Ci 42090 is a synthetic dye created from petroleum. It is used to give a bright blue color to cosmetics, medicine, and food.
CI 45410 is a synthetic red-pigment and dye.
It often goes by both Red 28 or Red 27; manufacturers label both ingredients as CI 45410.
This dye is commonly found in makeup because it imparts a vivid color. Some types of this dye change color based on pH level and interaction with moisture:
Your skin has a natural pH of around 4.5 - 5.5.
According to the FDA, CI 45410 is not permitted for use in eye products.
Red 27 is a flourescein dye and commonly used as a fluorescent tracer in medicine.
Learn more about CI 45410Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDimethicone Crosspolymer is a silicone created by modifying dimethicone with hydrocarbon side chains. Due to its large size, it does not penetrate skin. It is considered non-occlusive.
Dimethicone Crosspolymer is used to stabilize and thicken products. It also helps give products a silky feel.
This ingredient is a silicone elastomer that works as a texture enhancer, adds a silky slip, and also helps absorb excess oil.
Because it's a large macromolecule that's insoluble in water and chemically inert, it's not expected to penetrate or be absorbed into skin.
Human patch tests with a facial lotion containing 1% of this ingredient found no sensitization.
Learn more about Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone CrosspolymerEthylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateIsopropyl Myristate is an ester made by combining isopropyl alcohol with myristic acid.
It is primarily an emollient and penetration enhancer that gives products a lightweight, silky feel without the heaviness of oils.
This ingredient is generally considered non-toxic, non-irritating, and has low absorption potential.
You might have heard that this ingredient clogs pores. This reputation comes from the older rabbit ear studies which are more sensitive than human skin to clogging.
Dermatologist Dr. Zoe Draelos has also confirmed in a peer-reviewed paper that products containing comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic themselves.
A small subset of people (~2%) may experience contact sensitivity so patch testing is a reasonable idea if you have reactive skin.
Since this ingredient is an ester of myristic acid (a C14 fatty acid), it falls within the carbon chain range that is known to feed Malassezia. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Isopropyl MyristateIsostearic Acid is a fatty acid and a structural cousin of stearic acid. It is an emulsifier.
The branched structure of this ingredient enhances fluidity and gives it a lighter, less greasy feel compared to other fatty acids. It helps improve texture and consistency because it prevents oil and water phases from separating.
This ingredient is sourced from plant-based oils like soybean or rapeseed.
Clinical studies found no signs of irritation from this ingredient.
Since Isostearic Acid is an 18-carbon fatty acid, it is in the range that Malassezia can feed on. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
You might have seen sources that this ingredient is comedogenic. The original comedogenic testing on rabbit ear actually tested the ester, Isopropyl Isostearate and not Isostearic acid itself. There has been no comedogenic testing done on this ingredient, but it may be worth patch testing if you have acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Isostearic AcidLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is a plant-derived emulsifier and pigment-dispersing agent with a non-sticky skin feel.
It helps products glide on smoothly and prevents oil and water from separating in a formula, making it suitable for sunscreen and makeup formulations.
The EU inventory of cosmetics has no use restrictions on this ingredient and it is considered well-tolerated.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is derived from isostearic acid.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-2 TriisostearatePolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate is a plant-derived emulsifier made by combining glycerin and ricinoleic acid.
It works well for giving buttery lip balms and low-viscosity water-in-oil emulsions a non-greasy and pleasant skin feel.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-3%.
This ingredient is mild and non-irritating in nature.
Because it is derived from ricinoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Ricinoleic acid is an unsaturated fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleatePolyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.
You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.
Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about TribeheninThis ingredient is used in makeup and skincare to thicken formulas, reduce shine, and give skin a silky-smooth feel.
It’s a white silicone powder that sits in fine lines and pores to blur their appearance though its effectiveness depends on the particle size.
You'll typically find this ingredient in amounts between 0.1-20%.
Learn more about Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer