What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAvena Sativa Kernel Oil
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventCoco-Caprylate
EmollientInositol
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCetyl Palmitate
EmollientBakuchiol
AntimicrobialTocopherol
AntioxidantSorbitan Palmitate
EmulsifyingMica
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingSodium Anisate
AntimicrobialXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingLecithin
EmollientWater, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Propanediol, Coco-Caprylate, Inositol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Palmitate, Bakuchiol, Tocopherol, Sorbitan Palmitate, Mica, Sodium Levulinate, Sorbitan Oleate, Sodium Anisate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citric Acid, Lecithin
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingJojoba Esters
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Glycerin
HumectantCoco-Caprylate
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientVinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Palmitate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Manihot Esculenta Tuber Extract
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Digitata Extract
Skin ProtectingSophora Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ProtectingAcacia Decurrens Flower Wax
EmollientMalachite Extract
AntioxidantTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantCetyl Palmitate
EmollientPropyl Gallate
AntioxidantPolyglycerin-3
HumectantEpigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
AntioxidantGallyl Glucoside
AntioxidantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPropanediol
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Chloride
MaskingCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Sodium Carbonate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Olivate, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sorbitan Oleate, Hydrolyzed Manihot Esculenta Tuber Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Sophora Japonica Flower Extract, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Malachite Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Cetyl Palmitate, Propyl Gallate, Polyglycerin-3, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Gallyl Glucoside, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Chloride, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sodium Carbonate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientās final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateCetyl Palmitate is a wax-ester that pulls triple duty as an emollient, thickener, and emulsion enhancer.
It helps enhance the texture of products by giving a smooth, silky feel while helping to stabilize the formula. The emollient action softens skin and reduces moisture loss.
This ingredient is considered safe and human testing of concentrations between 2.5-2.7% were found minimal irritation. Just know, there have been very rare cases of the palmitate family causing contact dermatitis.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it contains a C16 ester (palmitic acid) that falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on.
Learn more about Cetyl PalmitateCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidCoco-Caprylate is a lightweight emollient made by combining coconut-derived fatty alcohols (caprylic and capric acid).
Its primary role in formulas is as a skin-softening emollient with excellent spreadability (it's considered a plant-based alternative to silicone oils like dimethicone).
This ingredient is considered safe for use and concentrations range from 0.5-62%.
Caprylic and capric fall outside the C11-24 range that Malassezia feeds on, and a 2020 study found caprylic acid disrupted Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Coco-CaprylateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Ā
Itās often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSorbitan Oleate is a PEG-free emulsifier made by esterifying sorbitol with oleic acid.
You'll likely see it paired with Polysorbate 80 to create the right emulsification balance.
Typical use levels in formulas range from 2-10%.
The CIR Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as a cosmetic ingredient.
Since this ingredient is an ester of oleic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Oleic acid is a fatty acid that falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Sorbitan OleateSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateSorbitan Palmitate is an emulsifier.
It is created by reacting sorbitol with palmitic acid.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water