What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventPropanediol
SolventHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingButylene Glycol
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantTrehalose
HumectantMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
AntimicrobialLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantArginine
MaskingOctyldodeceth-16
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGlycine
BufferingGlutamic Acid
HumectantAspartic Acid
Masking4-Terpineol
MaskingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentSodium Chloride
MaskingSerine
MaskingHistidine
HumectantAlanine
MaskingThreonine
Proline
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingMagnesium Chloride
Calcium Chloride
AstringentWater, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Propanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Allantoin, Betaine, Trehalose, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Lactobacillus Ferment, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Carbomer, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Arginine, Octyldodeceth-16, Xanthan Gum, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, 4-Terpineol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Chloride, Serine, Histidine, Alanine, Threonine, Proline, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Magnesium Chloride, Calcium Chloride
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingMethylpropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Leaf Water
Skin ConditioningCeratonia Siliqua Gum
EmollientChondrus Crispus Powder
AbrasiveChondrus Crispus
MaskingPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingCollagen
MoisturisingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPotassium Chloride
Sodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientSucrose
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTrideceth-6
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantC11-13 Isoparaffin
SolventMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
AntimicrobialButylene Glycol
HumectantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantHydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingSucrose Stearate
EmollientMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingAsiaticoside
AntioxidantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingMadecassoside
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methylpropanediol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Chondrus Crispus, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cellulose Gum, Collagen, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Potassium Chloride, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polysorbate 60, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Sucrose, Hydroxyacetophenone, Adenosine, Caprylyl Glycol, Trideceth-6, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Glyceryl Glucoside, C11-13 Isoparaffin, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Butylene Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Sucrose Stearate, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Cholesterol, Asiatic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Madecassoside, Disodium EDTA
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract comes from the Tea Tree, Melaleuca alternifolia, Myrtaceae. This tea tree is native to Australia.
Tea Leaf extract contains antimicrobial and anti-acne properties.
This ingredient has perfuming properties and contains linalool and limonene. These fragrance and terpinen components can cause skin sensitivity.
Learn more about the benefits of Tea Tree Oil here.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf ExtractThis ingredient is also known as tea tree oil. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Tea tree oil is a complex lipophilic (fat-loving) oil that contains around 100 compounds with terpinen-4-ol being the most abundant (~40%).
Terpinen-4-ol is responsible for tea tree oil's broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and makes it a well-researched option for acne.
Clinical studies support 5% tea tree oil as an effective topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. A study with 124 patients compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide and both reduced acne (though tea tree oil worked more slowly).
Besides acne, it is also seen in anti-dandruff shampoos and scalp treatments for it's antimicrobial and anti-seborrheic properties.
Safety-wise, the allergic potential of low concentrations on healthy skin is considered low. However, oxidized (old or improperly stored) tea tree oil is a stronger sensitizer.
Irritation can also occur if using the undiluted oil on skin; it's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted cosmetic formula. This is because regulations require tea tree oil in cosmetics to be stabilized to prevent degradation.
This ingredient has been deemed safe up to 2% in shampoo, 1% in cleansers, and 0.1% in face cream by the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).
There is some lab evidence that tea tree oil is antifungal against Malassezia, but it is a supportive option at best and not a replacement for proven antifungal treatments.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf OilThis ingredient is also known as tea tree leaf water or tea tree hydrosol. It functions as an antimicrobial, anti-sebum, astringent, and tonic ingredient.
You can think of it as a gentler, water-version of tea tree oil.
Its star active is terpinen-4-ol, a broad-spectrum antimicrobial.
The water-soluble compounds of tea tree have been shown to calm inflammation by roughly 50% in vitro (with Terpinen-4-ol driving this).
Terpinen-4-ol has also demonstrated strong inhibitory activity against Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus aureus.
Before slathering on tea tree water, just know concentrations under 5% are considered more suitable and safer than higher concentrations.
The European Medicines Agency recognizes tea tree-derived ingredients as having well-established use for mild acne and small superficial wounds.
It's a well-researched and skin-friendly option for oily or acne-prone skin.
As with most actives, patch testing is a good idea if your skin leans sensitive.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf WaterMethylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Learn more about MethylpropanediolSodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.
This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water