What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCocoglycerides
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCichorium Intybus Root Extract
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Candida Saitoana Extract
Skin ProtectingAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningMannitol
HumectantLecithin
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Oleate
EmollientAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingArachidyl Propionate
EmollientEthyl Linoleate
EmollientEthyl Linolenate
EmollientEthyl Oleate
EmollientHydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
EmollientSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Distearate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Oleate Citrate
EmulsifyingSodium Cocoyl Glutamate
CleansingSorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingSorbic Acid
PreservativePEG-100 Stearate
Dimethicone
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Chloride
MaskingWater, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Cocoglycerides, Butylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cichorium Intybus Root Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Candida Saitoana Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Mannitol, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Arachidyl Propionate, Ethyl Linoleate, Ethyl Linolenate, Ethyl Oleate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Sodium Polyacrylate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sorbitan Laurate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sorbic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Chloride
Water
Skin ConditioningCocoglycerides
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventButylene Glycol
HumectantCetyl Palmitate
EmollientPropylheptyl Caprylate
EmollientDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientPentaerythrityl Distearate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Oleate
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientCichorium Intybus Root Extract
MaskingVoandzeia Subterranea Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningEvodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
EmollientGlyceryl Oleate Citrate
EmulsifyingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentHelianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingLecithin
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPEG-6
HumectantDisodium Phosphate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDimethiconol
EmollientHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSorbic Acid
PreservativeSilica
AbrasiveIron Oxides
Water, Cocoglycerides, Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Palmitate, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Pentaerythrityl Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Octyldodecanol, Cichorium Intybus Root Extract, Voandzeia Subterranea Seed Extract, Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Sorbitan Laurate, Lecithin, Dimethicone, PEG-6, Disodium Phosphate, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Dimethiconol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid, Silica, Iron Oxides
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a peptide composed of amino acids arginine and tyrosine.
This peptide is considered a neurotransmitter peptide, meaning it has pain-relieving and relaxing properties. It has the ability to calm skin irritation from external factors such as chemical stinging or heat.
Neurotransmitter peptides are also often called "botox in a bottle". This is because these peptides have the ability to relax the muscles.
Though relaxing the muscles can prevent expression lines (as we have seen in botox), the studies do not show these peptides to be a botox replacement. The effects of this muscle relaxation is also short-term, as opposed to longer-term results from botox.
Learn more about Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl EsterAscorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.
Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Learn more about Ascorbyl PalmitateButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Glucoside is a sugar-based emulsifier. It is usually made by combining cetearyl alcohol and glucose.
Belonging to the aklyl polyglucoside (APG) family, Cetearyl Glucoside has a sugar "head" that loves water and a fatty "tail" that loves oil. This means it can shuffle oil and water into a stable and smooth emulsion.
Typical use levels are between 1-5% and this ingredient is considered to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel Review.
Once applied, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down to the parent fatty alcohol and glucose. This is why this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl GlucosideThis ingredient is also known as chicory root extract.
Cocoglycerides is made from the mono, di and triglycerides of coconut oil. It is an emollient and emulsifer.
Emollients are a type of moisturizer. They create a thin film on top of the skin. This film prevents moisture from escaping, keeping the skin hydrated.
Emulsifiers prevent ingredients from separating. Examples of this include oils and water, which naturally do not mix. Emulsifiers helps elongate the shelf life of a product. They also help the product stay consistent in texture.
Learn more about CocoglyceridesDicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.
As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDimethiconol is a silicone that resembles the popular dimethicone. Like other silicones, it is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
This ingredient helps to create a silky texture and improve spreadability. Due to its high molecular weight and thickness, it is often combined with cyclopentasiloxane.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Oleate is the ester of glycerin and oleic acid. This ingredient is mainly an emollient and emulsifier.
Emollients soften and hydrate the skin by creating a thin film on top to trap in moisture. As an emulsifier, glyceryl oleate helps stabilize formulations by preventing ingredients such as oil and water from separating. According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps helps thicken water-in-oil formulations, shower gels, and hair shampoos.
In some products, this ingredient may be used as a fragrance / perfuming ingredient. The scent of this ingredient is described to be "waxy".
Glyceryl oleate is created from oils rich in oleic acid, such as peanut oil and olive oil.
This ingredient may not be malassezia folliculitis safe.
Learn more about Glyceryl OleateGlyceryl Oleate Citrate isn't fungal acne safe.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHelianthus Annuus Seed Extract comes from sunflower seeds.
Sunflower seeds are rich in vitamin E. Studies show sunflowers contain antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.
The fatty acids found in sunflower seeds include (from highest amount to least): linoleic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, oleic acid, and linolenic acid.
These fatty acids hydrate your skin. Emollients create a film on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed ExtractHydrogenated Coco-Glycerides isn't fungal acne safe.
Hydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Learn more about HydroxyethylcelluloseLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Pentaerythrityl Distearate isn't fungal acne safe.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.
This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Learn more about Sodium Stearoyl GlutamateSorbic Acid is a preservative. It is the most commonly used food preservative in the world.
Sorbic Acid is a natural antibiotic and highly effective at preventing the growth of fungus. It is less effective against bacteria.
Potassium Sorbate, another commonly-used preservative, is the potassium salt of Sorbic Acid.
Sorbic Acid may worsen eczema. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.
Potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
Learn more about Sorbic AcidSorbitan Laurate is created from lauric acid and derivatives from sorbitol. It is an emulsifier.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water