What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Vitis Vinifera Fruit Water
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Malt Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract
Skin ProtectingPhaseolus Angularis Seed Extract
AntioxidantCoix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningLotus Corniculatus Flower Extract
MaskingGlycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
EmulsifyingPropanediol
SolventArginine
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Sodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentDextrin
AbsorbentVitis Vinifera Fruit Water, Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Hydrolyzed Malt Extract, Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tocopherol, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Lotus Corniculatus Flower Extract, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, Propanediol, Arginine, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Polyacrylate, Dextrin
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water
Skin ConditioningPhaseolus Radiatus Seed Water
Citrus Junos Fruit Water
MaskingGlycine Soja Seed Water
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlycine Max Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Princeps Leaf Water
MaskingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Water
MaskingBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus
Skin ConditioningLactococcus Ferment
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningNatto Gum
Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
AntioxidantLactobacillus/Pear Juice Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate
HumectantArtemisia Annua Extract
MaskingPolymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingEclipta Prostrata Extract
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Cicer Seed Extract
Skin ProtectingSodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate
SurfactantHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientMaltodextrin
AbsorbentTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-32
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentErythritol
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantTrehalose
HumectantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantAlpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
CleansingPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantAlanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Water
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Leaf Water, Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Water, Citrus Junos Fruit Water, Glycine Soja Seed Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Panthenol, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactobacillus, Lactococcus Ferment, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Natto Gum, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Pear Juice Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate, Artemisia Annua Extract, Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice, Arginine, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Cicer Seed Extract, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Maltodextrin, Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Tripeptide-32, Betaine, Carbomer, Allantoin, Dextrin, Erythritol, Dipropylene Glycol, Trehalose, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Water
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerDextrin is a starch-derived polysaccharide. It's made by partially breaking down corn, potato, or other plant starches.
Think of it as "half-processed" starch; it's less complex than the original but not fully broken down into sugar like maltodextrin.
In cosmetics, it mainly functions as a bulking agent, viscosity controller, binder, and absorbent. It helps thicken products, stabilize powders, and get certain textures a less "wet" feel.
This ingredient has a pretty solid safety profile; it's recognized as a safe food additive and its large molecular size means it doesn't meaningfully penetrate skin.
Human repeat insult patch tests using a rinse-off facial product containing 42.69% dextrin found no skin irritation or sensitization in 54 subjects.
Typical real-world usage is much lower: usually under 1% as a texture modifier and up to 40% in masks (rinse off products use less).
Learn more about DextrinDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenonePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water