What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningLauryl Laurate
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientCarnitine
CleansingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingLactic Acid
BufferingAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCetearyl Olivate
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Potassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSantalum Austrocaledonicum Wood Oil
MaskingTeprenone
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingHydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract
Skin ProtectingPolyglyceryl-4 Caprate
EmulsifyingVanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingOrmenis Multicaulis Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingDextran
Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3
Skin ProtectingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Lauryl Laurate, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Carnitine, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Lactic Acid, Alcohol Denat., Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Olivate, Mica, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Olivate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Gluconate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Santalum Austrocaledonicum Wood Oil, Teprenone, Tocopherol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Ormenis Multicaulis Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Dextran, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, CI 77891
Water
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantSqualane
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientRosa Canina Seed Oil
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSantalum Austrocaledonicum Wood Oil
MaskingDisodium Phosphate
BufferingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantSodium Phosphate
BufferingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingAdenine
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCarnitine
CleansingPaeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tributyl Citrate
MaskingAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningDextran
Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3
Skin ProtectingPhenyl T-Butylnitrone
AntioxidantThioctic Acid
AntioxidantWater, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Cetyl Alcohol, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Gluconate, Xanthan Gum, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Santalum Austrocaledonicum Wood Oil, Disodium Phosphate, Phospholipids, Ubiquinone, Sodium Phosphate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Adenine, Caprylyl Glycol, Carnitine, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Alcohol Denat., Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Dextran, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, Phenyl T-Butylnitrone, Thioctic Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).
This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.
However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.
Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.
One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).
Also...
This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.
This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.
Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.
Learn more about Alcohol Denat.This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprooyl Tetrapeptide-3 is a peptide.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideThis ingredient is also known as Levocarnitine or L-Carnitine. It is an amino acid derivative naturally found in our bodies.
Biologically, carnitine plays a key role in cellular energy production. It transports fatty acids into the mitochondria (say it with me, "the powerhouse of the cell") where they are converted into cellular fuel.
In skincare, this process helps regulate sebum production. One study found topical L-carnitine can help reduce excess oil and improve skin oil balance. This makes it a great addition for oily or acne-prone skin.
Besides oil control, carnitine supports healthy skin metabolism by boosting lipid breakdown. Research has shown it can improve skin’s resilience against aging and external stressors like UV exposure.
There are no downsides to using this ingredient and it is a great multifunctional ingredient for both sebum regulation and anti-aging care.
Learn more about CarnitineCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil is oil from the peel of an orange fruit.
Limonene and linalool make up the majority of oils from citrus peels. Limonene has a "citrus" fragrance. Citrus peels also contain flavonoids, which have anti-inflammatory properties.
Citrus peel is also a rich source of flavonoids. Flavonoids are natural antioxidants and help protect your skin against damage. Flavonoids are a group of compounds naturally found in vegetables and fruits.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel OilDextran is a sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.
Fun fact: Louis Pasteur first discovered this ingredient as a microbial product in wine.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLavandula Angustifolia Oil is more commonly known as lavender essential oil. It is considered a fragrancing ingredient.
Lavender imparts a famous scent. While the smell is lovely, this ingredient and may sensitize skin in topical products. This is because about 85% of the oil is made up of linalool and linalyl acetate.
When exposed to air, these two compounds become strong allergens. This ingredient exhibits cytotoxicity at low concentrations; amounts of 0.25% have been shown to damage skin cells.
A study from Japan found this ingredient caused lavender sensitivity after widespread exposure.
Lavender essential oil has some antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the cons of this ingredient may outweight the pros.
More research is needed to confirm lavender essential oil's effects when used in aromatherapy.
Lavandula Angustifolia is known as the English Lavender and famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.
Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia OilPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Santalum Austrocaledonicum Wood Oil is a fragrance and is an oil.
This is the synthetic salt of gluconic acid, a form of PHA and mild exfoliant.
It is mainly used to stabilize oil and butter formulations from going bad. Sodium gluconate is a humectant, pH regulator, and chelating agent.
Chelating agents help neutralize unwanted metals from affecting the formulation.
Sodium gluconate is water-soluble.
Learn more about Sodium GluconateSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum