What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Tridecyl Trimellitate
EmollientPolyisobutene
Hydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientOctyldodecanol
Emollient
Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientSynthetic Wax
Abrasive
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Emulsifying
Ethyl Vanillin
MaskingEthylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Tribehenin
Emollient
Aroma
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emollient
Papain
Skin Conditioning
Rosmarinus Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
MaskingWater
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Glucose
Humectant
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Silica
Abrasive
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Octyldodecanol, Microcrystalline Wax, Isononyl Isononanoate, Synthetic Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phenoxyethanol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Ethyl Vanillin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Tribehenin, Aroma, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Papain, Rosmarinus Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Water, Sorbitan Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Glucose, Lactic Acid, Silica, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, CI 77891, CI 19140, CI 15850
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientPolyisobutene
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Disteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingSynthetic Wax
Abrasive
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Vanillin
Masking
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Zinc Carbonate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Parfum
Masking
Tribehenin
Emollient
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Water
Skin ConditioningRicinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Glycerin
Humectant
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emollient
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Diisostearyl Malate, Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Microcrystalline Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Octyldodecanol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Synthetic Wax, Phenoxyethanol, Vanillin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Zinc Carbonate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Parfum, Tribehenin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sorbitan Isostearate, Water, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 is a synthetic emollient that works as a lanolin substitute.
This ingredient is a great vegan option for those avoiding animal-derived ingredients.
It mostly stays on the surface of skin where it helps hydrate due to its large molecular size and low water solubility.
Due to it being derived from fatty acids, this ingredient may not be Malassezia or fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterEthylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateHydrogenated Castor Oil (aka "castor wax") is what you get when castor oil is turned into a wax.
Its dominant fatty acid is ricinoleic acid, giving it both emollient and mild humectant properties.
According to EU CosIng, this ingredient helps soften skin, keep oil and water stay mixed, and thickens products.
Hydrogenated castor oil at 30% did not trigger a positive patch-test reaction and is well-tolerated.
Since this ingredient is based on an 18-carbon fatty acid, it falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia can feed on and may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Hydrogenated Castor OilLactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the âglueâ that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they donât penetrate as deeply. This means theyâre less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skinâs microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the productâs pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Lactic AcidMicrocrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.
In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.
Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer made from isobutene.
It is a film-forming agent and helps bind ingredients together.
Polyisobutene is not absorbed by the skin.
Learn more about PolyisobuteneThis ingredient is also known as castor oil. It is a skin conditioning ingredient.
The star component of castor oil is ricinoleic acid, an unusual fatty acid that makes up ~80-92% of its composition.
In skincare, it is an emollient that dries down to a solid film with water-binding properties. This helps keep skin hydrated and helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
A 2026 dermatology review pulls together its broader uses:
Human clinical testing found this ingredient to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Because castor oil contains fatty acids in the C11-24 range, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
At this time, the literature does not support castor oil in regrowing hair. A 2022 systematic review found no strong evidence that it supports hair growth and only weak evidence that it improves hair shine.
Castor oil itself carries "perfuming" and "masking" function tags according to the official CosIng database. This is because of its mild odor and odor-dampening properties.
Learn more about Ricinus Communis Seed OilSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateSynthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about TribeheninWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
