What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantMyristic Acid
CleansingPropylene Glycol
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingLauric Acid
CleansingDecyl Glucoside
CleansingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientXylitol
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeNiacinamide
SmoothingParfum
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPotassium Cocoyl Glycinate
Polyquaternium-7
Disodium EDTA
Potassium Cocoate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingXylitylglucoside
HumectantAnhydroxylitol
HumectantSodium Benzoate
MaskingGlucose
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningDeoxyphytantriyl Palmitamide Mea
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSaccharomyces Lysate
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientDisodium Succinate
MaskingGlutamic Acid
HumectantGlycine
BufferingThreonine
Valine
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Myristic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Lauric Acid, Decyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Xylitol, Phenoxyethanol, Niacinamide, Parfum, Panthenol, Allantoin, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Polyquaternium-7, Disodium EDTA, Potassium Cocoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Sodium Benzoate, Glucose, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Nonapeptide-1, Deoxyphytantriyl Palmitamide Mea, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Saccharomyces Lysate, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Disodium Succinate, Glutamic Acid, Glycine, Threonine, Valine
Myristic Acid
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantWater
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingLauric Acid
CleansingGlycol Distearate
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPerlite
AbsorbentParfum
MaskingKaolin
AbrasiveHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Capryloyl/Caproyl Methyl Glucamide
EmulsifyingLauroyl/Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide
EmollientPolyquaternium-6
O-Cymen-5-Ol
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeMethylisothiazolinone
PreservativeSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Pentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Lactate
BufferingLactic Acid
BufferingSerine
MaskingUrea
BufferingSodium Chloride
MaskingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSorbitol
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 47005
Cosmetic ColorantMyristic Acid, Glycerin, Water, Propylene Glycol, Potassium Hydroxide, Lauric Acid, Glycol Distearate, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Perlite, Parfum, Kaolin, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Capryloyl/Caproyl Methyl Glucamide, Lauroyl/Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide, Polyquaternium-6, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone, Sodium Metabisulfite, Disodium EDTA, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Lactate, Lactic Acid, Serine, Urea, Sodium Chloride, Allantoin, Sorbitol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, CI 42090, CI 47005
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLauric Acid is a saturated fatty acid naturally found in coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and even breast milk.
In cosmetics, it is an:
Lab studies have found that lauric acid is surprisingly good at killing acne-causing bacteria. However, these tests were done on bacteria in a petri dish and not on real skin, so we can't say for certain it works the same in a formulation on a real face.
The comedogenic rating of 4 comes from the 1972 rabbit ear model using undiluted ingredients. Comedogenicity is highly individual and one comedogenic ingredient cannot predict how a formula will behave on skin.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe and research has confirmed Malassezia can use it as a food source.
Learn more about Lauric AcidMyristic Acid is a saturated fatty acid. It is naturally found in milk fat. Other sources include palm oil, coconut oil, and butter fat.
Myristic Acid is an emulsifer and cleanser. As an emulsifer, it stabilizes a product by preventing ingredients from separating. Myristic Acid helps clean your skin by acting as a surfactant. It tends to gather oil and dirt on your skin to be easily rinsed away.
One study from 2021 found Myristic Acid to have anti-inflammatory properties.
Learn more about Myristic AcidParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Potassium hydroxide is commonly known as caustic potash. It is used to fix the pH of a product or as a cleaning agent in soap. In cleansers, it is used for the saponification of oils.
Sapnification is the process of creating fatty acid metal salts from triglycerides and a strong base. During this process, Potassium Hydroxide is used up and is not present in the final product.
Using high concentrations of Potassium Hydroxide have shown to irritate the skin.
Learn more about Potassium HydroxidePropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water