What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingOctyldodecanol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCera Alba
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingParfum
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantTropolone
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Glycerin, Cetearyl Glucoside, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cera Alba, Sorbitan Olivate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Tocopherol, Tropolone, Glycine Soja Oil
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingOctyldodecanol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Olivate
Pentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningMethyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningVinyldimethicone
C12-16 Alcohols
EmollientParfum
MaskingVinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Butylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventPalmitic Acid
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Phytate
Cellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingJuglans Nigra Leaf Extract
AstringentPinus Densiflora Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialSophora Japonica Leaf Extract
Skin ProtectingStearyl Alcohol
EmollientTrichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract
Skin ProtectingTocopherol
AntioxidantHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientChamaecyparis Obtusa Water
MaskingPinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract
TonicMethylpropanediol
SolventCocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
EmollientHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantBambusa Vulgaris Water
Skin ConditioningCupressus Sempervirens Leaf Extract
PerfumingPinus Sylvestris Bud Extract
PerfumingPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingGaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract
PerfumingPrunus Persica Flower Extract
MoisturisingPinus Pinaster Bark Extract
AntioxidantAnemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Olivate, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Sorbitan Olivate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methyl Trimethicone, Vinyldimethicone, C12-16 Alcohols, Parfum, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Phytate, Cellulose Gum, Juglans Nigra Leaf Extract, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract, Sophora Japonica Leaf Extract, Stearyl Alcohol, Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract, Methylpropanediol, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Bambusa Vulgaris Water, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Extract, Pinus Sylvestris Bud Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract, Prunus Persica Flower Extract, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum