What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingOlus Oil
EmollientOleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides
EmollientPropanediol
SolventPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Tristearate
EmulsifyingDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantArgania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningAlpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
CleansingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPyridoxine Hcl
Skin ConditioningMelissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningHexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate
Skin ConditioningBorago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientPsilanthus Bengalensis Leaf Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientTocotrienols
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingLecithin
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningElaeis Guineensis Oil
EmollientSqualene
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialParfum
MaskingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCyclodextrin
AbsorbentAlcohol
AntimicrobialPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningCarnosine
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Olus Oil, Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides, Propanediol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Tristearate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Sodium Hyaluronate, Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Pyridoxine Hcl, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Psilanthus Bengalensis Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocotrienols, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Squalene, Phenoxyethanol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Carbomer, Chlorphenesin, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Cyclodextrin, Alcohol, Phytosterols, Carnosine
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPropanediol
SolventVp/Va Copolymer
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantArgania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningMalus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantAlpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
CleansingMedicago Sativa Extract
TonicBorago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Lupine Protein
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaffeine
Skin ConditioningPyridoxine Hcl
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientMelissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningCarnosine
Skin ConditioningCyclodextrin
AbsorbentCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
CleansingJojoba Oil/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Esters
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingGlycerin
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Cocoyl Glutamate
CleansingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientParfum
MaskingSodium Surfactin
CleansingAlcohol
AntimicrobialPolyglyceryl-6 Oleate
EmulsifyingWater, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Vp/Va Copolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Medicago Sativa Extract, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Panthenol, Retinyl Palmitate, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caffeine, Pyridoxine Hcl, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lecithin, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Carnosine, Cyclodextrin, Carbomer, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Jojoba Oil/Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Esters, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Parfum, Sodium Surfactin, Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract is an extract of the leaves of the aloe, Aloe barbadensis, Liliaceae.
Aloe is one of the most well-known natural soothing ingredients, and for good reason. It’s full of water and has a cooling, calming effect on the skin, especially when it’s sunburned, itchy, or irritated. Aloe also helps your skin stay hydrated and smooth by mimicking what healthy skin naturally produces. On top of that, it contains vitamins and nutrients that support skin recovery.
It doesn’t protect you from the sun, but it can help your skin bounce back after too much time in it.
Let’s get into the details:
Aloe contains antioxidant Vitamins A, C, and E, which help fight off free radicals (unstable molecules from things like pollution that can damage your skin).
It’s also rich in polysaccharides, which are natural sugars that help hydrate the skin by acting like the skin’s own moisturizing agents. These, along with other sugars like monosaccharides, help form a protective barrier that locks in moisture.
Aloe works as both a humectant and an emollient. That means it draws water into the skin (humectant) and helps trap it there (emollient), making it an effective natural moisturizer.
You’ll also find a mix of other skin-supporting ingredients in aloe, including folic acid, choline, calcium, amino acids, fatty acids, and even Vitamin B12.
Out of the 420+ species of aloe, Aloe barbadensis is the most widely used in skincare products thanks to its gentle yet effective properties.
There are over 420 species of aloe but Aloe Barbadensis is the most commonly used for topical products.
Learn more about Aloe Barbadensis Leaf ExtractAlpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide is a prebiotic. It prevents harmful bacteria from growing on skin by keeping the skin's microbiome in balance.
Another benefit of this ingredient is its antioxidant properties. Antioxidants protect our skin from oxidative damage.
We don't have a description for Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract yet.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is a version of ascorbic acid, or Vitamin C.
This ingredient has many benefits including reducing wrinkles, skin soothing, dark spot fading, and fighting against free radicals.
It helps with dark spot fading by interfering with the process of skin darkening, helping to reduce hyperpigmentation. Like other forms of vitamin C, this ingredient encourages the skin to create more collagen.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
One study found Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate to degrade in sunlight, but is stabilized when combined with acetyl zingerone.
Learn more about Ascorbyl TetraisopalmitateBorago Officinalis Seed Oil is from the seeds of the starflower plant. This plant grows primarily in Europe.
This oil does not have a scent. It contains fatty acids such as linolenic acid. These fatty acids help keep skin hydrated.
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
Learn more about Borago Officinalis Seed OilCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerCarnosine is a dipeptide made from two amino acids.
This ingredient helps:
Glycation is the process of sugars binding to and damaging proteins. Too much sugar in our skin can lead to damaged collagen, contributing to factors of aging.
Carnosine is water-soluble and is not able to travel deeper layers of skin. This leads to some doubt about whether it can boost collagen in skin, since collagen is located in the deeper layers of skin.
Fun fact: Carnosine can be naturally found in our muscles and brain.
Learn more about CarnosineCyclodextrins are ring-shaped sugar molecules made from starch. It is used to stabilize, protect, and slowly release active ingredients.
This ingredient can help prevent oxidation, reduce irritation from strong actives, and make certain ingredients absorb better once applied.
Once applied to your skin, enzymes gradually break down the cyclodextrin "ring"; this releases the active ingredient in a controlled way.
Learn more about CyclodextrinEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinThis ingredient comes from a rare Swiss apple known as Uttwiler Spätlauber. It is produced from the cell cultures of the apple and not the fruit itself.
According to manufacturer studies, this ingredient has demonstrated the following benefits:
- Visible anti-wrinkle effect around the eye area (in vivo)
- Enhanced colony-forming efficiency of epidermal stem cells (in vitro)
- Improved ability of skin cells to regenerate and build new tissues in a 3D epidermis model (in vitro)
- Increased skin density (in vitro)
- Boosted vitality of epidermal stem cells (in vitro)
- Reversal of cellular aging signs in fibroblasts (in vitro)
Lemon balm is a mint-family herb with skin conditioning properties. It contains components such as rosmarinic acid, caffeic acid, geraniol, citronellal, and ursolic acid.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideThis synthetic peptide is created from lysine, valine, and palmitic acid.
According to the manufacturer, in-vitro studies show tissue growth and collagen synthesis. Another in-vivo study found 60 volunteers saw a significant reduction in wrinkles after 84 days.
Due to its palmitic acid base, this peptide may not be fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolPyridoxine hydrochloride, also known as vitamin B6, has skin conditioning properties. According to a manufacturer, this ingredient is an effective anti-dandruff treatment as it reduces sebum levels and oily spots.
Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum