Dr. Althea Vitamin C Boosting Serum Versus Skinmade 15% Vitamin C + Bio Stemcell Super Brightening Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Tranexamic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hippophae Rhamnoides Water
MaskingCentella Asiatica Leaf Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingButylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantWater
Skin ConditioningMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventBetaine
HumectantTranexamic Acid
AstringentGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingEclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion Stabilising3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningC12-14 Pareth-12
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTromethamine
BufferingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Fructooligosaccharides
HumectantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantUbiquinone
AntioxidantHydroxydecyl Ubiquinone
AntioxidantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantHippophae Rhamnoides Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Water, Methyl Gluceth-20, Methylpropanediol, Betaine, Tranexamic Acid, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, C12-14 Pareth-12, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Fructooligosaccharides, Beta-Glucan, Ascorbic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Alpha-Arbutin, Tocopherol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Bisabolol, Ubiquinone, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Water
AntioxidantGlycerin
HumectantTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPotassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Skin ConditioningScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentPunica Granatum Seed Cell Culture Lysate
Skin ConditioningPolymethylsilsesquioxane
Niacinamide
SmoothingDiglucosyl Gallic Acid
Alpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantEllagic Acid
Skin ConditioningTranexamic Acid
AstringentHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientAcetyl Glycyl Beta-Alanine
Skin ConditioningTetrapeptide-30
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-68
BleachingHydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingRubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentSilybum Marianum Extract
Skin ConditioningBrassica Rapa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningMorus Alba Root Extract
BleachingAcetyl Glucosamine
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantMaltodextrin
AbsorbentGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCeramide AP
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Squalane
EmollientHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientSodium Oleate
CleansingFerulic Acid
Antimicrobial4-Butylresorcinol
AntioxidantHydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingWater, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Water, Glycerin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Punica Granatum Seed Cell Culture Lysate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Niacinamide, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Alpha-Arbutin, Ellagic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Acetyl Glycyl Beta-Alanine, Tetrapeptide-30, Oligopeptide-68, Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid, Glutathione, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Silybum Marianum Extract, Brassica Rapa Root Extract, Morus Alba Root Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Maltodextrin, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Disodium EDTA, Squalane, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Sodium Oleate, Ferulic Acid, 4-Butylresorcinol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Sodium Benzoate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAlpha-Arbutin is a brightening active used to fade dark spots, melasma, and post-acne marks. Structurally, it is a hydroquinone with a sugar molecule attached (but is much gentler than raw hydroquinone).
It has a pretty elegant way of working; it slots into tyrosinase, or the key enzyme that your skin uses to make melanin), and competitively blocks it so your skin produces less pigment over time.
There are two forms of arbutin and alpha is the better one to reach for: it works at lower amounts, absorbs into skin more easily, and has a strong safety record.
The science backs this up too: lab and animal studies confirm it lowers melanin by blocking tyosinase and the more you use (up to a point), the more it works.
Human studies look good too.
A 2024 trial found a cream with 5% alpha-arbutin and 2% kojic acid worked about as well as a prescription melasma cream but with fewer side effects. Another study showed 2% alpha-arbutin paired with 10% Trihydroxybenzoic Acid Glucoside and sunscreen faded dark spots and melasma without causing irritation.
Concentration-wise, most serums land in the 1-2% range.
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety concluded that alpha-arbutin is safe in face creams up to 2% and body lotions up to 0.5%.
Overall, this is a well-studied and low-irritation brightener that's a great pick for anyone dealing with uneven skin tone. It also pairs well with vitamin C, niacinamide, and sunscreen.
Learn more about Alpha-ArbutinButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideTranexamic Acid (TXA) is a synthetic lysine derivative that is becoming one of the most exciting brightening ingredients in skincare.
Originally used in medicine as an anti-hemorrhagic agent, its skin brightening potential was discovered by accident; patients taking it orally started noticing their melasma was fading.
Unlike most brighteners that target tyrosinase (the enzyme that synthesizes melanin), TXA works further upstream. It basically blocks your cells from receiving the signal to produce pigment.
This makes it one of the rare actives that works on three pathways at once:
This makes it effective for treating melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and sun-induced dark spots.
The most effective cosmetic concentration sits between 2-5% and going higher doesn't boost results.
Side effects are generally mild; occasional irritation, flaking, or dryness have been reported at the start of use. Overall, this ingredient is pretty well tolerated, even by sensitive skin types.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it does not cause photosensitivity, so it's safe to use in the AM and PM.
Learn more about Tranexamic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum