What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
Emollient
Paraffin
Skin ConditioningMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin Conditioning
Rosa Canina Fruit Extract
Astringent
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Emollient
Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Emollient
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Masking
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Masking
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Emollient
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientBis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientTocopherol
Antioxidant
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientJojoba Esters
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Synthetic Wax, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Paraffin, Microcrystalline Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Diisostearyl Malate, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Jojoba Esters
Polyisobutene
Petrolatum
Emollient
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Emulsifying
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Emollient
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Masking
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
Emollient
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide Ns
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide As
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide EOP
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide AP
Skin Conditioning
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Cholesterol
Emollient
Vinegar
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Trehalose
Humectant
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingSargassum Fusiforme Extract
Skin ProtectingGlycerin
Humectant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Polyisobutene, Petrolatum, Diisostearyl Malate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Stearic Acid, Cholesterol, Vinegar, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Trehalose, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Microcrystalline Wax, Sargassum Fusiforme Extract, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideDiisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Microcrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.
In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.
This ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.
The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.
Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.
Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.
It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).
Because it has a 2-3 on the comedogenic scale, it is a moderate risk for acne-prone skin. However, the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.
Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.
Learn more about Olea Europaea Fruit OilJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
