What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingAcrylates/Stearyl Acrylate/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer
Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate/Tetraisostearate
Skin ConditioningPhenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
EmulsifyingSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantPolyethylene
AbrasiveMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Persea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningRosa Damascena Flower Oil
MaskingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientIsostearic Acid
CleansingLecithin
EmollientStearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingPropylene Carbonate
SolventTocopherol
AntioxidantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Polyisobutene, Octyldodecanol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Diisostearyl Malate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Acrylates/Stearyl Acrylate/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Dipentaerythrityl Tetrahydroxystearate/Tetraisostearate, Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Synthetic Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene, CI 77891, Polyethylene, Microcrystalline Wax, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Persea Gratissima Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Propylene Carbonate, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, CI 15985, CI 17200, CI 77491, CI 77492
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone
Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer
EmollientC9-12 Alkane
SolventGlyceryl Hydrogenated Rosinate
Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate
PerfumingDextrin Isostearate
Skin ConditioningIsododecane
EmollientSucrose Acetate Isobutyrate
Synthetic Wax
AbrasiveCellulose
AbsorbentBis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone/Smdi Copolymer
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientEuphorbia Cerifera Cera
AstringentPolyethylene
AbrasiveParfum
MaskingLecithin
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningAluminum Hydroxide
EmollientSodium Myristoyl Glutamate
CleansingPunica Granatum Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningEthyl Vanillin
MaskingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
EmulsifyingAmmonium Glycyrrhizate
MaskingDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingVanillin
MaskingPropylene Carbonate
SolventCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingLinalyl Acetate
MaskingTerpineol
MaskingIsostearic Acid
CleansingTin Oxide
AbrasivePaeonia Officinalis Flower Extract
TonicPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantTrimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, C9-12 Alkane, Glyceryl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Dextrin Isostearate, Isododecane, Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate, Synthetic Wax, Cellulose, Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone/Smdi Copolymer, Octyldodecanol, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Polyethylene, Parfum, Lecithin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Aluminum Hydroxide, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Punica Granatum Flower Extract, Ethyl Vanillin, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Vanillin, Propylene Carbonate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Linalyl Acetate, Terpineol, Isostearic Acid, Tin Oxide, Paeonia Officinalis Flower Extract, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 15850
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCi 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77491CI 77492 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a yellow hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created CI 77492 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77492Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Isostearic Acid is a fatty acid and a structural cousin of stearic acid. It is an emulsifier.
The branched structure of this ingredient enhances fluidity and gives it a lighter, less greasy feel compared to other fatty acids. It helps improve texture and consistency because it prevents oil and water phases from separating.
This ingredient is sourced from plant-based oils like soybean or rapeseed.
Clinical studies found no signs of irritation from this ingredient.
Since Isostearic Acid is an 18-carbon fatty acid, it is in the range that Malassezia can feed on. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
You might have seen sources that this ingredient is comedogenic. The original comedogenic testing on rabbit ear actually tested the ester, Isopropyl Isostearate and not Isostearic acid itself. There has been no comedogenic testing done on this ingredient, but it may be worth patch testing if you have acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Isostearic AcidLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamatePolyethylene is a synthetic ingredient that helps the skin retain moisture. It is a polymer.
It is also typically used within product formulations to help bind solid ingredients together and thicken oil-based ingredients. When added to balms and emulsions, it helps increase the melting point temperature.
We don't have a description for Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer yet.
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate is a plant-derived, oil-soluble emulsifier. It keeps water-in-oil emulsions stable to prevent the ingredients from separating.
On the safety front, it's considered non-irritating and well-tolerated (it can even be found in formulations for baby skin).
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because research has shown that the Malassezia species can grow in the presence of fatty acid esters with chain lengths above C12 (and this one is C18).
While it does have a comedogenic rating of 4, the comedogenic rating scale was developed from rabbit ear models which has limited clinical relevance to human skin. Studies also show that comedogenic ingredients cannot predict how the overall formula will behave on human skin.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 DiisostearatePolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate is a plant-derived emulsifier made by combining glycerin and ricinoleic acid.
It works well for giving buttery lip balms and low-viscosity water-in-oil emulsions a non-greasy and pleasant skin feel.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-3%.
This ingredient is mild and non-irritating in nature.
Because it is derived from ricinoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Ricinoleic acid is an unsaturated fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleatePolyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.
You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.
Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidThis ingredient is a solvent. It helps dissolve active ingredients and alter the texture of products.
Propylene Carbonate is commonly used in makeup and with clay, such as montmorillonite or bentonite.
Studies show this ingredient to be safe for cosmetics. When it is undiluted, it can cause skin irritation. (It is always diluted in skincare and makeup). This ingredient is water-soluble.
Propylene Carbonate is created from propylene glycol and carbonic acid.
Learn more about Propylene CarbonateThis ingredient is also known as sweet almond oil. It is a lightweight, cold-pressed oil from the ripe seeds of the sweet almond tree.
Sweet almond oil is rich in skin-nourishing fatty acids such as oleic acid (55-86%) and linolenic acid (7-35%).
As an emollient, it softens and hydrates skin by forming a thin barrier that locks in moisture.
Clinical studies have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the available safety data and concluded it is safe for topical use.
Because of the oleic acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis OilSynthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.
Learn more about Synthetic Wax