What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningZinc Oxide
Cosmetic Colorant
Diisopropyl Adipate
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene
Skin Conditioning
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Oleate Citrate
Emulsifying
Propanediol
Solvent
Decyl Glucoside
Cleansing
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Emulsifying
Squalane
Emollient
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Absorbent
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Absorbent
Saccharide Isomerate
Humectant
Citric Acid
Buffering
Sodium Citrate
BufferingHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
CI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantPolyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantLactic Acid
Buffering
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Zinc Oxide, Diisopropyl Adipate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Propanediol, Decyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Squalane, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Saccharide Isomerate, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77492, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, CI 77491, CI 77499, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Zinc Oxide
Cosmetic Colorant
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialC13-15 Alkane
SolventHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Skin Conditioning
Tribehenin
Emollient
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientSilica
Abrasive
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Masking
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Stearalkonium Bentonite
Gel FormingGlycine Soja Oil
Emollient
Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Emulsifying
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Hesperethusa Crenulata Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningLecithin
Emollient
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Propylene Carbonate
SolventPolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Emulsifying
Oryza Sativa Germ Extract
EmollientOryza Sativa Extract
Absorbent
Benincasa Cerifera Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningIsostearic Acid
Cleansing
Malic Acid
Buffering
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Zinc Oxide, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, C13-15 Alkane, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Tribehenin, Diisostearyl Malate, Silica, Octyldodecanol, Propanediol Dicaprylate/Caprate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearalkonium Bentonite, Glycine Soja Oil, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Hesperethusa Crenulata Bark Extract, Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Carbonate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Benincasa Cerifera Seed Extract, Isostearic Acid, Malic Acid, Tocopherol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglyceridePolyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.
You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.
Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidTriethoxycaprylylsilane is a silicon-based surface modifier that makes sunscreens feel silky and makeup stay put.
Its main job is to coat mineral particles like titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and color pigments in a thin, oily layer so they spread smoothly, don't clump, and stick to skin better.
This ingredient is typically used at low levels (up to 2.5% in eyeshadow and 1% in lipstick).
Learn more about TriethoxycaprylylsilaneZinc Oxide is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter; it is the broadest UVA and UVB reflector approved by the FDA. It also has skin protectant and skin soothing properties.
Zinc oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters. It protects against UVB, UVAII, and UVAI. In comparison to its counterpart titanium dioxide, zinc oxide provides uniform and extended UVA protection.
Another great benefit? This ingredient is highly photostable so it won't degrade easily under sunlight.
A common myth is that mineral UV filters are widely believed to primarily reflect UV light.
However, modern research shows titanium dioxide absorbs UV radiation like chemical filters (~95% absorption & 5% reflection).
Zinc oxide has great skin soothing properties so you'll likely find this in sunscreens formulated for sensitive skin or babies/children. It is unlikely to cause "eye sting" like other sunscreen ingredients.
Regulatory agencies consider zinc oxide to be non-toxic and safe. It has also been shown to not penetrate the skin.
Unfortunately, this ingredient does leave a visible white cast. This is why mineral sunscreens are often less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid ones.
In cosmetics, zinc oxide can be found in both non-nano and nano-sized forms. The nano version is used to reduce white cast and improve the texture of sunscreen formulas.
There are ongoing concerns surrounding nano-zinc oxide's impact on marine ecosystems and whether it can be absorbed into skin.
Regarding marine ecosystems and coral reefs, there is no conclusive evidence that any form of zinc oxide (or any other sunscreen ingredients) will cause harm. The science is still developing but many consumers are keeping a close eye on this issue.
Please note, many destinations have reef-safety sunscreen rules. For instance, the U.S. Virgin Islands advises all visitors to use non-nano mineral sunscreens.
There has also been some stir about whether micronized or nano zinc oxide has potential photoxicity and absorption through the skin/lungs.
An in-vitro (done in a test tube or petri dish) study demonstrated micronized zinc oxide to have potential phototoxicity. There's no need to fret; the EU Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has stated, "The relevance of these findings needs to be clarified by appropriate investigations in vivo." Or in other words, further studies done on living organisms are needed to prove this.
Current research shows zinc oxide nanoparticles do not penetrate intact or sunburned skin. They either remain on the surface or in the outermost layer of dead skin (stratum corneum).
Zinc oxide is one of only two classified mineral UV filters with titanium dioxide being the other one.
Fun fact: Zinc has been used throughout history as an ingredient in paint and medicine. An Indian text from 500BC is believed to list zinc oxide as a salve for open wound. The Ancient Greek physician Dioscorides has also mentioned the use of zinc as an ointment in 1AD.
Learn more about Zinc Oxide
