What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Cyclopentasiloxane
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialDimethicone
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientDisiloxane
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingCamellia Seed Oil
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningBorago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientZea Mays Oil
EmulsifyingBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Silk
HumectantHydrolyzed Keratin
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantTocopherol
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Disiloxane, Parfum, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Linalool, Citronellol, Coumarin, Camellia Seed Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Zea Mays Oil, Beta-Carotene, Water, Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Tocopherol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Cyclopentasiloxane
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialDimethicone
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientLithospermum Officinale Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientHydrolyzed Silk
HumectantOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Keratin
HumectantAspergillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningVegetable Amino Acids
Skin ConditioningLinum Usitatissimum Seed Extract
PerfumingSalvia Hispanica Seed Extract
EmollientSilk Amino Acids
HumectantXylitol
HumectantHydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientMaltodextrin
AbsorbentGlycerin
HumectantArginine
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCaprylic Acid
Cleansing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningPotassium Benzoate
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeParfum
MaskingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingCyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Alcohol, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Lithospermum Officinale Root Extract, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Silk, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Aspergillus Ferment, Vegetable Amino Acids, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Silk Amino Acids, Xylitol, Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Squalane, Water, Cyclohexasiloxane, Maltodextrin, Glycerin, Arginine, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Ceramide NP, Phospholipids, Phytosphingosine, Phytosterols, Potassium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Parfum, Hexyl Cinnamal, Geraniol, Limonene, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Alcohol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
You may know this ingredient as argan oil. It has emollient and skin conditioning properties that help soften skin and reinforce the lipid barrier.
The fatty acid profile of argan oil is roughly 45-55% oleic acid, 28-36% linoleic acid, 10-15% palmitic acid, and 5-7% stearic acid. It also contains vitamin E, sterols, squalene, and polyphenols like ferulic acid.
Two clinical studies in postmenopausal women found that applying argan oil for 60 days significantly improved skin elasticity and moisturization (reduced transepidermal water loss and increased epidermal water content).
Since it is high in oleic and linoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Both of these fall in the C11-C24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Argania Spinosa Kernel OilC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolCyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.
Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.
The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics
There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.
Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.
The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDimethiconol is a silicone that resembles the popular dimethicone. Like other silicones, it is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
This ingredient helps to create a silky texture and improve spreadability. Due to its high molecular weight and thickness, it is often combined with cyclopentasiloxane.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilHydrolyzed Keratin is derived from keratin. Keratin is a large protein that is naturally found in our hair and skin.
Studies show keratin is able to seal broken hair cuticles, helping to prevent split ends and breakage.
As a humectant, hydrolyzed keratin helps draw moisture from the air to your hair and skin. This helps keep your skin and hair hydrated.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed KeratinYou can find hydrolyzed silk in both haircare and skincare products. According to a manufacturer, it can help improve skin and hair hydration.
This ingredient is created by adding acid or enzymes to 'hydrolyze' silk protein.
Due to the origins of this ingredient, it is not vegan. Silk is an animal product from silkworms.
Depending on the source, this ingredient can be considered cruelty-free. It is created from left-over cocoons of silkworms. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about where their hydrolyzed silk comes from.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed SilkThis ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.
The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.
Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.
Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.
It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).
Because it has a 0-2 on the comedogenic scale, it is low risk for acne-prone skin. Just remember the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.
Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.
Learn more about Olea Europaea Fruit OilParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water