What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthyl Linoleate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventCetearyl Isononanoate
EmollientBisabolol
AntioxidantHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningTasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract
AntioxidantInulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCeteareth-12
EmulsifyingCeteareth-20
CleansingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCarrageenan
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingCetyl Palmitate
EmollientSucrose Laurate
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingIsoceteth-20
EmulsifyingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialHydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Skin ConditioningBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Disodium EDTA
Dehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeBenzoic Acid
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethyl Linoleate, Propanediol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Bisabolol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Retinol, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Glyceryl Stearate, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Carrageenan, Xanthan Gum, Acacia Senegal Gum, Cetyl Palmitate, Sucrose Laurate, Polysorbate 20, Isoceteth-20, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Behentrimonium Chloride, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Disodium EDTA, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingDimethicone
EmollientChamomilla Recutita Flower/Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialBetaine
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialHamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPantolactone
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantHydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingParfum
MaskingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Tromethamine
BufferingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Behenyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Dimethicone, Chamomilla Recutita Flower/Leaf Extract, Betaine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panthenol, Pantolactone, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Carbomer, Parfum, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Tromethamine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Tocopherol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethyl Isosorbide (often shortened to DMI) is a sugar-derived solvent made from sorbitol. It's used to dissolve tricky ingredients and help them mix smoothly into a formula.
Many actives sit as gritty crystals when undissolved, so DMI swoops in to full dissolve them. This helps improve texture, stability, and how evenly an active is distributed.
It does have a penetration-enhancing reputation that is a bit more nuanced than marketing suggests; a cell study on human skin found that 10% DMI didn't significantly boost the permeation of Hydroquinone, Salicylic Acid, or Octadecenedioic Acid compared to controls (though it did improve their solubility in the formula itself).
Typical usage concentrations usually range from 1-10% depending on the formula's needs; this ingredient is also well tolerated at these levels.
Learn more about Dimethyl IsosorbideDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHydroxypinacolone Retinoate (aka Granactive Retinoid or HPR) is a retinoid that is part of the same vitamin A family as retinol.
It is an ester of retinoic acid that binds directly to your skin's retinoic acid receptors so it doesn't need your skin to convert it through several steps before it can do anything.
In practice, this means it does the classic retinoid jobs in a formula:
The best part is that it can do all this with noticeably less redness, flaking, and stinging than traditional retinoids.
That gentle reputation is backed by lab work as well; a 2018 study on skin models found that HPR triggered higher retinoid-gene activity than retinol, retinal, or retinyl propionate at the same concentrations while being less irritating to cells.
It also boosted procollagen production to levels similar to retinoic acid itself.
A 2023 study showed HPR works synergistically with retinyl propionate to switch on collagen-building pathways and a 2025 clinical serum study in women with mild photoaging saw improvements in wrinkles and elasticity (though that formula also contained retinol, peptides, and Silybin).
One naming quirk worth mentioning:
You'll likely see this ingredient sold under the trade name "Granactive Retinoid", which is actually only 10% HPR blended with 90% Dimethyl Isosorbide solvent. This means a 5% Granactive Retinoid really only means about 0.5% HPR.
Finished products typically land somewhere between 0.05-1% and it's happiest formulated at a mildly acidic to neutral pH (~5.5-6.5).
Another perk is that this is one of the more light- and temperature-stable retinoids which is a nice bonus for shelf life.
Learn more about Hydroxypinacolone RetinoateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water