This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingButylene Glycol
Humectant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantGlycerin
HumectantCapryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSqualane
EmollientSodium Citrate
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingDiheptyl Succinate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
ChelatingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Oligopeptide
CleansingPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCamellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
AstringentEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningOrchis Mascula Flower Extract
SoothingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCananga Odorata Flower Extract
PerfumingCucumis Melo Cantalupensis Fruit Extract
AstringentEugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract
AstringentGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Gallica Flower Extract
AstringentCinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
MaskingJasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract
MaskingCoffea Arabica Leaf/Seed Extract
MaskingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAmyl Cinnamal
PerfumingCinnamyl Alcohol
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingWater, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Diheptyl Succinate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Orchis Mascula Flower Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cananga Odorata Flower Extract, Cucumis Melo Cantalupensis Fruit Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Rosa Gallica Flower Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract, Coffea Arabica Leaf/Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Amyl Cinnamal, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citronellol, Eugenol, Hydroxycitronellal
Water
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingIsododecane
EmollientPolymethylsilsesquioxane
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantCoconut Alkanes
EmollientCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantDilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer
Emollient3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasivePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingXylitylglucoside
HumectantDimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer
Anhydroxylitol
HumectantMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingStevioside
MaskingPolysilicone-11
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingXylitol
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingPotassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Skin ConditioningCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlucose
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Citrate
BufferingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingHippophae Rhamnoides Extract
MaskingLycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
AstringentRosa Canina Fruit Extract
AstringentSodium Hydroxide
BufferingLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantAroma
Sodium Chloride
MaskingCitral
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Squalane, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isododecane, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Mica, Coconut Alkanes, CI 77891, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Cetearyl Methicone, Silica, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Xylitylglucoside, Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Anhydroxylitol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Stevioside, Polysilicone-11, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xylitol, Tocopherol, Parfum, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, CI 77491, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ascorbic Acid, Aroma, Sodium Chloride, Citral, Limonene, Linalool
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum