What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Tridecyl Trimellitate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Dextrin Palmitate
Emulsifying
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningIsostearic Acid
Cleansing
Citric Acid
Buffering
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Aminopropyl Triethoxysilane
SurfactantPolyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Disteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPropylene Carbonate
SolventCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic Colorant
CI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantTridecyl Trimellitate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dextrin Palmitate, Diisostearyl Malate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Isostearic Acid, Citric Acid, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Aminopropyl Triethoxysilane, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, CI 45410, Titanium Dioxide, CI 42090
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
C10-18 Triglycerides
Emollient
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Stearyl Behenate
Emollient
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Dicalcium Phosphate
Abrasive
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingSilica
Abrasive
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Silica Silylate
Emollient
Propylene Carbonate
SolventIsostearic Acid
Cleansing
Lecithin
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Emulsifying
Blakeslea Trispora Mycelium Extract
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantIron Oxides
CI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate, Diisostearyl Malate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, C10-18 Triglycerides, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Stearyl Behenate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Dicalcium Phosphate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Silica, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Silica Silylate, Propylene Carbonate, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Blakeslea Trispora Mycelium Extract, CI 77891, Iron Oxides, CI 45410, CI 15850, CI 19140, CI 42090
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCi 42090 is a synthetic dye created from petroleum. It is used to give a bright blue color to cosmetics, medicine, and food.
CI 45410 is a synthetic red-pigment and dye.
It often goes by both Red 28 or Red 27; manufacturers label both ingredients as CI 45410.
This dye is commonly found in makeup because it imparts a vivid color. Some types of this dye change color based on pH level and interaction with moisture:
Your skin has a natural pH of around 4.5 - 5.5.
According to the FDA, CI 45410 is not permitted for use in eye products.
Red 27 is a flourescein dye and commonly used as a fluorescent tracer in medicine.
Learn more about CI 45410Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
Isostearic Acid is a fatty acid and a structural cousin of stearic acid. It is an emulsifier.
The branched structure of this ingredient enhances fluidity and gives it a lighter, less greasy feel compared to other fatty acids. It helps improve texture and consistency because it prevents oil and water phases from separating.
This ingredient is sourced from plant-based oils like soybean or rapeseed.
Clinical studies found no signs of irritation from this ingredient.
Since Isostearic Acid is an 18-carbon fatty acid, it is in the range that Malassezia can feed on. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
You might have seen sources that this ingredient is comedogenic. The original comedogenic testing on rabbit ear actually tested the ester, Isopropyl Isostearate and not Isostearic acid itself. There has been no comedogenic testing done on this ingredient, but it may be worth patch testing if you have acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Isostearic AcidOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is a plant-derived emulsifier and pigment-dispersing agent with a non-sticky skin feel.
It helps products glide on smoothly and prevents oil and water from separating in a formula, making it suitable for sunscreen and makeup formulations.
The EU inventory of cosmetics has no use restrictions on this ingredient and it is considered well-tolerated.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is derived from isostearic acid.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-2 TriisostearatePolyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.
You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.
Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidThis ingredient is a solvent. It helps dissolve active ingredients and alter the texture of products.
Propylene Carbonate is commonly used in makeup and with clay, such as montmorillonite or bentonite.
Studies show this ingredient to be safe for cosmetics. When it is undiluted, it can cause skin irritation. (It is always diluted in skincare and makeup). This ingredient is water-soluble.
Propylene Carbonate is created from propylene glycol and carbonic acid.
Learn more about Propylene CarbonateJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
