Mustela Stretch Marks Cream Versus Sol De Janeiro Beija Florâ„¢ Elasti-Cream with Collagen and Squalane
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientCandelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingPropanediol
SolventCitric Acid
BufferingHydrolyzed Avocado Protein
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingHamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPassiflora Edulis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C10-18 Triglycerides, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Persea Gratissima Oil, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Tocopherol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Propanediol, Citric Acid, Hydrolyzed Avocado Protein, Maltodextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, Passiflora Edulis Fruit Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientParfum
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingIsopentyldiol
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientC13-16 Isoparaffin
SolventGlycerin
HumectantPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingCaryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientSqualane
EmollientCollagen Amino Acids
MoisturisingTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningCopaifera Officinalis Resin
MaskingAstrocaryum Vulgare Kernel Oil
Skin ConditioningAstrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
EmollientDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Extract
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningHeptyl Undecylenate
EmollientPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeMica
Cosmetic ColorantAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Parfum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopentyldiol, Glyceryl Stearate, C13-16 Isoparaffin, Glycerin, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Cetyl Alcohol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Caryodendron Orinocense Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Behenyl Alcohol, Squalane, Collagen Amino Acids, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Copaifera Officinalis Resin, Astrocaryum Vulgare Kernel Oil, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Tocopherol, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Heptyl Undecylenate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Benzyl Salicylate, CI 77891
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum