What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingMethylpropanediol
SolventRosa Damascena Flower Water
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingOctyldodeceth-16
EmulsifyingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPvp
Emulsion StabilisingCitric Acid
BufferingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Butylene Glycol
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningMethyl Diisopropyl Propionamide
MaskingGardenia Florida Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningRibes Nigrum Leaf Extract
PerfumingRubus Suavissimus Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSea Water
HumectantHedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
AntimicrobialHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningChrysanthemum Zawadskii Extract
Skin ConditioningPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingGlycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningMyosotis Sylvatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingEctoin
Skin ConditioningGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningEthyl Hexanediol
SolventRosa Damascena Flower Extract
MaskingQuercetin
AntioxidantSqualane
EmollientSodium DNA
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydrolyzed Proanthocyanidin
AntioxidantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantWater, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Citrate, Octyldodeceth-16, Panthenol, Pvp, Citric Acid, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Butylene Glycol, Allantoin, Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide, Gardenia Florida Flower Extract, Ribes Nigrum Leaf Extract, Rubus Suavissimus Leaf Extract, Sea Water, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Chrysanthemum Zawadskii Extract, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Myosotis Sylvatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Glutathione, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ectoin, Gluconolactone, Ethyl Hexanediol, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Quercetin, Squalane, Sodium DNA, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Proanthocyanidin, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingIsopentyldiol
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantBetaine
HumectantCitrus Junos Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningBis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentCitrus Junos Peel Oil
AstringentSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantArbutin
AntioxidantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantPancratium Maritimum Extract
BleachingGlutathione
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingRetinal
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingMagnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantArginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Limonene
PerfumingWater, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Isopentyldiol, Dipropylene Glycol, Betaine, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Bis-Ethoxydiglycol Cyclohexane 1,4-Dicarboxylate, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Arginine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Adenosine, Sodium Polyacrylate, Citrus Junos Peel Oil, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycerin, Arbutin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Gluconolactone, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Maltodextrin, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Glutathione, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Ferulic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinal, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Disodium EDTA, Limonene
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineBetaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Learn more about BetaineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolDipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Learn more about Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGluconolactone is a PHA. PHAs are a great gentle alternative to traditional AHAs.
When applied, Gluconolactone has the same affect on skin as AHAs such as lactic acid. It helps dissolve the dead skin cells in the top layer of your skin. This improves texture and brightens the skin.
PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. They do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation.
Gluconolactone has some interesting properties:
In a 2004 study, Gluconolactone was found to prevent UV damage in mouse skin cells and has not been found to increase sun sensitivity. However, we still recommend wearing SPF daily.
This ingredient is is an created by reacting gluconic acid with an alcohol.
Learn more about GluconolactoneGlutathione is an antioxidant naturally found in our bodies. It is made up of three amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid.
As an antioxidant, it prevents oxidative damage to parts of our cell.
While glutathione is said to help with fading dark spots, the results from research are inconclusive. Further studies are needed. With that said, gluthatione has been shown to protect our skin from UV-B induced damage.
This ingredient is naturally occurring in plants, animals, fungi, and some bacteria.
Learn more about GlutathioneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePolyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a cleansing agent and emulsifier.
It rounds up dirt, oil, and grime, so they can be rinsed off easily as a cleanser.
On the emulsifier side, it keeps your formula smooth and well-mixed by playing peacekeeper for ingredients that don't naturally get along (like oil and water).
Because it has a C12 (lauric acid) fatty acid chain, this ingredient can potentially feed the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne. The Malassezia yeast prefers esters with C11-C24 fatty acids.
This ingredient is an ester of lauric acid and Polyglycerin-10.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-10 LaurateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water