What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningUrea
BufferingGlycerin
HumectantHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientMethylpropanediol
SolventPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingDimethicone
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingDimethiconol
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Panthenol
Skin ConditioningMyristyl Alcohol
EmollientLauryl Alcohol
EmollientSalicylic Acid
MaskingBisabolol
AntioxidantGlutathione
Sodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantPancratium Maritimum Extract
BleachingParfum
MaskingWater, Urea, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Methylpropanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Carbomer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Dimethiconol, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Panthenol, Myristyl Alcohol, Lauryl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Bisabolol, Glutathione, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientXylitylglucoside
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveAnhydroxylitol
HumectantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientXylitol
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBisabolol
AntioxidantAlcohol
AntimicrobialGlucose
HumectantO-Cymen-5-Ol
AntimicrobialBiosaccharide Gum-2
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingCholesterol
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantAlanyl Glutamine
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingLysine
Skin ConditioningOleic Acid
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientPhenylalanine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningScenedesmus Rubescens Extract
Skin ConditioningBetula Alba Oil
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Oligopeptide-177
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Ascorbate
AntioxidantWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Panthenol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Xylitylglucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Silica, Anhydroxylitol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Xylitol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Bisabolol, Alcohol, Glucose, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Biosaccharide Gum-2, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Cholesterol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopherol, Alanyl Glutamine, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Arginine, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide NP, Glycine, Lysine, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Phenylalanine, Proline, Scenedesmus Rubescens Extract, Betula Alba Oil, Disodium EDTA, Oligopeptide-177, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Ascorbate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Learn more about BisabololThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum