What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSnail Secretion Filtrate
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Olivate
Glycerin
HumectantSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantBenzyl Glycol
SolventArginine
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Starch
AbsorbentPolyacrylate-2
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingRaspberry Ketone
MaskingIsohexadecane
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Butoxydiglycol
MaskingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingWater, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Olivate, Glycerin, Sorbitan Olivate, Microcrystalline Wax, Sodium Polyacrylate, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Benzyl Glycol, Arginine, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Starch, Polyacrylate-2, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Raspberry Ketone, Isohexadecane, Disodium EDTA, Butoxydiglycol, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Oleate, Adenosine, BHT, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycosyl Trehalose
Emulsion StabilisingHydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientBellis Perennis Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningDiglycerin
HumectantPEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer
SolventTranexamic Acid
AstringentAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingArginine
MaskingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantGlycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
AntioxidantPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingPaeonia Lactiflora Extract
AstringentPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingGlucose
HumectantSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCamellia Sinensis Extract
AntioxidantFragaria Ananassa Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPhenylethyl Resorcinol
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePhospholipids
Skin ConditioningAnanas Sativus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingCarica Papaya Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide As
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Niacinamide, Glycosyl Trehalose, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bellis Perennis Flower Extract, Diglycerin, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Tranexamic Acid, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Arginine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sorbitan Olivate, Alpha-Arbutin, Allantoin, Glyceryl Glucoside, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Extract, Polysorbate 80, Glucose, Sorbitan Oleate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Fragaria Ananassa Fruit Extract, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Phenoxyethanol, Phospholipids, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Ceramide NP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Ceramide Ns, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePolysorbate 80 is a synthetic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.
It reduces the surface tension between oil and water phases to help them stay mixed and stable in a formulation. In other words, it prevents your formulas from separating into an oily mess.
The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the scientific data and found this ingredient to be safe, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing at concentrations up to 5% (it's even approved by the FDA as an OTC eye drop ingredient).
Learn more about Polysorbate 80Sorbitan Oleate is a PEG-free emulsifier made by esterifying sorbitol with oleic acid.
You'll likely see it paired with Polysorbate 80 to create the right emulsification balance.
Typical use levels in formulas range from 2-10%.
The CIR Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as a cosmetic ingredient.
Since this ingredient is an ester of oleic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Oleic acid is a fatty acid that falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Sorbitan OleateSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water