What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantSilica
AbrasiveAcrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingIsohexadecane
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialMica
Cosmetic ColorantTriethanolamine
BufferingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantDimethiconol
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Sorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingTin Oxide
AbrasiveWater, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Silica, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Isohexadecane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Propylene Glycol, CI 77891, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Chlorphenesin, Mica, Triethanolamine, Polysorbate 80, Caffeine, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Dimethiconol, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Oleate, Tin Oxide
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantIsohexadecane
EmollientHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientIsopropyl Isostearate
EmollientAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentPropylene Glycol
HumectantNylon-12
Octyldodecanol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantStearic Acid
CleansingStearyl Alcohol
EmollientTriethanolamine
BufferingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingMyristic Acid
CleansingMyristyl Alcohol
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingLaureth-7
EmulsifyingT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingPolyacrylamide
Polyethylene
AbrasiveMethylparaben
PreservativePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantLinalool
PerfumingIsoeugenol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Dimethicone, Isopropyl Isostearate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Propylene Glycol, Nylon-12, Octyldodecanol, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Myristic Acid, Myristyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Laureth-7, T-Butyl Alcohol, Polyacrylamide, Polyethylene, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, CI 15985, CI 19140, Linalool, Isoeugenol, Limonene, Citronellol, Benzyl Alcohol, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidThis ingredient is often marketed as Pro-Xylane. It was developed by L'Oreal in 2006 and comes from xylose, a natural sugar extracted from beech wood.
In L'Oreal's published chemistry work, this ingredient was identified as a strong activator of sulfated glycosaminoglycan (GAG) biosynthesis.
This ingredient helped skin make more of its own natural “water-holding” molecules (called GAGs) in lab studies and skin models, which are important for keeping skin plump and hydrated. It also supported proteins that help anchor and support the skin’s layers.
Most human studies look at full skincare formulas rather than the ingredient on its own.
In one 12-week study, a facial serum containing Pro-Xylane was linked to improvements in skin hydration, firmness, and the appearance of sun-damaged skin.
In a more recent study, a product with hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol plus niacinamide was used after laser treatments and showed visible improvements in fine lines, wrinkles, and overall skin appearance within about 8 weeks, along with signs that the skin was calming and repairing itself.
Learn more about Hydroxypropyl TetrahydropyrantriolIsohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.
Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.
Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.
Learn more about IsohexadecanePhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolTriethanolamine (TEA) is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. It is created using ethylene oxide and ammonia. This gives Triethanolamine a nitrogen core and a similar scent to ammonia.
As an emulsifier, it prevents ingredients from separating and enhances texture by adding volume to a product.
PH adjusters are common in cosmetic products. The pH of a product can affect the effectiveness of other ingredients. A product with a high pH may also irritate the skin.
If you are looking for the tea leaf ingredient, click here.
Learn more about TriethanolamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water