What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPEG-40 Stearate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeStearic Acid
CleansingPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantParfum
MaskingSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTriethanolamine
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAllantoin
Skin ConditioningCamellia Japonica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Unshiu Peel Extract
MaskingOpuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningOrchid Extract
Skin ConditioningStearyl Behenate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea
EmollientInulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingWater, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, PEG-40 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethiconol, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Stearic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Parfum, Sorbitan Stearate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Allantoin, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Orchid Extract, Stearyl Behenate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Beta-Glucan, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Polysorbate 20
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningMyristica Fragrans Extract
MaskingPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPEG-40 Stearate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningMonarda Didyma Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningBetula Platyphylla Japonica Juice
Skin ConditioningCorchorus Olitorius Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSalvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCetearyl Olivate
Dimethicone
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingTrisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Myristica Fragrans Extract, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phytosphingosine, Beta-Glucan, Sorbitan Stearate, Panthenol, Monarda Didyma Leaf Extract, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Corchorus Olitorius Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetearyl Olivate, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Carbomer, Tromethamine, PEG-100 Stearate, Sorbitan Olivate, Trisodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Learn more about Beta-GlucanCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.
Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.
The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics
There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.
Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.
The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
PEG-40 Stearate is a nonionic emulsifier and surfactant made from stearic acid.
It's water-soluble and good at coaxing oil + water to mix to keep everything stable.
The CIR Expert Panel has repeatedly concluded this ingredient to be safe at current cosmetic use levels with minimal skin/eye irritation when tested at 100%.
Your skincare also won't be containing 100% of this ingredient: the supplier recommends using 1-5% in a formula.
Broader reviews back this up: PEGs and their fatty-acid esters produce little or no skin/eye irritation, don't readily penetract intact skin, and rarely cause sensitization.
Because this ingredient is a PEG ester of stearic acid, it may not be fungal acne, or Malassezia, safe. Stearic acid (C18) sits in the C11-24 "edible window" that Malassezia lipases can cleave and metabolize.
Learn more about PEG-40 StearatePentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate is an emollient that helps make your skin smooth and hydrated. It specializes in creating a non-oily and "wet" feeling on skin.
This ingredient comes from isostearic acid, a saturated fatty acid. It is a synthetic ingredient.
Sorbitan Stearate is an emulsifier made by reacting sorbitol with stearic acid.
It's mostly used to keep oil and water mixed so your formulas stay smooth and stable.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has found 4% of this ingredient in repeat-insult patch tests on humans to be non-sensitizing. There is a caveat that some reactions have shown up in patients with damaged or diseased skin.
Because it is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it falls into the C11-24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize. This means this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan StearateStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum