This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantAlcohol
AntimicrobialDipropylene Glycol
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantPEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingHydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Emollient3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientBHT
AntioxidantLinalool
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingParfum
MaskingSalicylic Acid
MaskingSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePhenylethyl Resorcinol
AntioxidantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
ChelatingLimonene
PerfumingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingCitrus Junos Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentAcetyl Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine
Skin ConditioningOxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, Alcohol, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, PEG/PPG/Polybutylene Glycol-8/5/3 Glycerin, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Isononyl Isononanoate, BHT, Linalool, Geraniol, Parfum, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Adenosine, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Limonene, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Citric Acid, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum, Maltodextrin, Acetyl Trifluoromethylphenyl Valylglycine, Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Alcohol
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
Solvent3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningNeopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Dimethicone
EmollientSqualane
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingCitrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
ChelatingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Sulfate
Sodium Sulfite
PreservativeCoptis Japonica Extract
AntimicrobialAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-2
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-3
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingPinene
MaskingWater, Propanediol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Cetearyl Olivate, Dimethicone, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan Olivate, Niacinamide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ferulic Acid, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Citrus Aurantium Amara Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Sulfate, Sodium Sulfite, Coptis Japonica Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Tripeptide-3, Limonene, Pinene
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum