Fresh Tea Elixir Skin Resilience Activating Serum Versus Caudalie Resveratrol Lift Instant Firming Serum
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract and Hyaluronic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientIsostearyl Alcohol
EmollientPropanediol
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol Cocoate
EmulsifyingCellulose
AbsorbentMacrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientHyaluronic Acid
HumectantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantMaltodextrin
AbsorbentAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingParfum
MaskingEthylcellulose
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Isostearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol Cocoate, Cellulose, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Maltodextrin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Parfum, Ethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Adenosine, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Phytosphingosine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantHexyldecanol
EmollientHexyldecyl Laurate
EmollientSqualane
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantC20-22 Alkyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract
AntioxidantC20-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientParfum
MaskingHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Dehydroacetate
PreservativeHyaluronic Acid
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Khaya Senegalensis Bark Extract
Skin ProtectingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingPaeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCoumarin
PerfumingNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-47
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate, Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract, C20-22 Alcohols, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Hyaluronic Acid, Adenosine, Sodium Hydroxide, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Phytate, Khaya Senegalensis Bark Extract, Maltodextrin, Linalool, Limonene, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Coumarin, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-47
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilHyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Learn more about Hyaluronic AcidLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolMaltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.
This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).
Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.
Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.
Learn more about MaltodextrinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water