Cream Co. SOS Serum Versus Hoito Vitamin C Serum
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
Smoothing3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Behenyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientLecithin
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSodium PCA
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
HumectantPropanediol
SolventSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantLactic Acid
BufferingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Emulsion StabilisingArnica Montana Flower Extract
MaskingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialSalvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
CleansingOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
PerfumingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Water, Niacinamide, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Alpha-Arbutin, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Lecithin, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium PCA, Panthenol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Lactic Acid, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantNiacinamide
SmoothingPropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantSodium PCA
HumectantArginine
MaskingOryza Sativa Bran Water
MaskingCurcuma Longa Root Extract
MaskingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialRosa Damascena Extract
MaskingRosa Canina Fruit Extract
AstringentArnica Montana Flower Extract
MaskingCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeWater, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sodium PCA, Arginine, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rosa Damascena Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Arnica Montana Flower is more commonly known as Wolf's Bane. While this flower has been used in traditional medicine, its skin benefits are in question.
The FDA considers Wolf's Bane to be an unsafe herb. They advise against taking it orally or applying it to broken skin.
Wolf's Bane has been said to have anti-inflammatory properties. However, studies are conflicting about whether this is true.
According to the Final report on the safety assessment of Arnica montana, this plant has not been found to cause dermal irritation.
This flower contains numerous fatty acids such as palmitic, linoleic, myristic, and linolenic acids. The presence and amount of fatty acids depends on where the flower is harvested.
Like other flowers, this ingredient has a natural fragrance. It can also be used to mask, or cover, the unpleasant scents from other ingredients.
Learn more about Arnica Montana Flower ExtractCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSodium PCA is the sodium salt of pyroglutamic acid. It is naturally occurring in our skin's natural moisturizing factors where it works to maintain hydration.
The PCA stands for pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a natural amino acid derivative.
This ingredient has skin conditioning, anti-inflammatory, and humectant properties. Humectants help hydrate your skin by drawing moisture from the air. This helps keep your skin moisturized.
Learn more about Sodium PCAWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum